Taming of the 'Shroom - mushrooms - Recipe

Nancy Ross Ryan

Cultivate a taste for wild and exotic mushrooms with these chefs' favorites

Not so long ago, mushrooms in America meant one thing: white button. Though they are still a kitchen staple today, what's captured our current culinary fancy are the wild varieties: shiitake, porcini, morel, chanterelle and others. Thanks to creative chefs who popularized these earthy delights in the late 1970s and early '80s, our awareness of and interest in them has, well, mushroomed. Exotic varieties like enoki, portobello, oyster and wood ears are cultivated commercially and readily available in supermarkets across the nation. In fact, since 1975, mushroom consumption in the United States has increased by a whopping 200 percent.

Mushrooms, especially wild ones, are prized for their rich flavors and subtle undertones. This is because they have a high concentration of glutamic acid, which naturally enhances the flavors of the other ingredients they're cooked with. Mushrooms are also very low in calories and fat and contain vitamins A, B and C, plus such minerals as selenium, potassium and phosphorous.

Perhaps mushrooms' greatest gift is their versatility: They can be sauteed or stir-fried in oil or butter; simmered in soups, stews or sauces; pureed for spreads; and tossed raw into salads. (The more flavor a mushroom has, the better it will taste simply brushed with olive oil or a marinade and seared under the broiler or on a grill.) Just one or two exotic mushrooms can liven up an entire meal. But let's not neglect the ordinary white and brown button mushrooms, both of which offer firm texture and wonderful flavor and are an excellent complement to their more exotic cousins.

Although many menus and stores promise "wild" mushrooms, only a handful of varieties are actually gathered wild. Most of the mushrooms sold commercially are cultivated exotics. Some of them, such as morel, matsutake and black trumpet, have resisted attempts at being farmed, but that only intensifies their allure and can make them very expensive. Several wild mushrooms are also available dried, but those flavors differ from the fresh ones--and certain varieties, most notably porcini and shiitake, have a far more robust flavor when dried. Although these often come with a hefty price tag (up to $17 per ounce), remember that one ounce is the equivalent of 10 to 16 ounces of fresh.

The following delectable recipes have been gathered mostly from top restaurant chefs and adapted for the home cook. We've also included tips for purchasing, storing and handling all mushrooms, plus a quick reference guide to the varieties you're most likely to find in the produce section.

Mushroom-Tomato Ragu

MAKES 7 CUPS DAIRY-FREE

This all-purpose mushroom ragu is even better the next day. Try it with pasta, as an omelet filling, spooned on top of a baked potato ... the possibilities are endless (see "Ragu Raves"). If fresh basil is unavailable, substitute 1 to 2 teaspoons dried mixed with 1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley. Ragu will keep up to four days refrigerated; it can also be frozen.

3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped
2 small cloves garlic, minced
28-oz. can tomato puree
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. freshly ground pepper
1 lb. portobello mushrooms, sliced
8 oz. cremini mushrooms, sliced
1/4 to 1/3 cup chopped fresh basil

IN MEDIUM SAUCEPAN, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat. Add half of the onions and cook, stirring, until lightly golden, about 3 minutes. Add half of the garlic and cook, stirring, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in tomato puree, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper and 3 1/2 cups water. Increase heat to high and bring to a boil, stirring. Reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, in large saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon oil over high heat. Add remaining onions and cook, stirring, until lightly golden, about 3 minutes. Add remaining garlic and cook, stirring, 1 to 2 minutes. Add all mushrooms and cook, stirring often, 3 minutes. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil and cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are tender and begin to release their juices, 3 to 4 minutes more. Stir in tomato mixture and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until flavors have blended, about 20 minutes.

Remove from heat. Stir in basil, remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and remaining 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Serve hot.

PER CUP: 92 CAL.; 3G PROT.; 6G TOTAL FAT ( [is greater than]1G SAT. FAT); 8G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 308MG SOD.; 3G FIBER

Creamy Mushroom Ragu

MAKES 4 CUPS LACTO

This rich-tasting sauce is quite low in fat. Browning flour in a dry skillet is the classic way to prepare the roux base--be sure to use a heavy pan and to stir constantly to prevent scorching. For a dairy-free version, replace milk with an oat or unflavored soy beverage.

1/2 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
3 whole cloves
3 large shallots, peeled
1 Tbs. vegetable oil
1 lb. mixed mushrooms, such as
   shiitake, chanterelle and
   portobello, sliced
1 tsp. salt
1 quart (4 cups) low-fat milk
1 small bay leaf
Pinch of ground nutmeg

IN HEAVY MEDIUM SAUCEPAN, cook flour over medium heat, whisking constantly, until light tan all over (the color of an almond shell), about 5 minutes. Immediately remove from heat and continue whisking until flour cools slightly, 2 to 3 minutes. Set aside to cool completely.

Meanwhile, stick cloves in 1 shallot and set aside. Thinly slice remaining 2 shallots. In heavy large skillet, heat oil over high heat. Add sliced shallots and cook, stirring, until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Add mushrooms and 1/2 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring, until tender and they begin to release their juices, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

Gradually whisk in 3/4 cup milk to cooled flour in saucepan until smooth paste forms; then gradually whisk in remaining 1 1/4 cups milk until no lumps remain. Add remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, whole shallot with cloves, bay leaf and nutmeg. Place over medium-high heat and bring to a boil, whisking constantly. Boil until thickened, whisking constantly, about 5 minutes.

Reduce heat to low and simmer, whisking occasionally, until flavors have blended, about 15 minutes. Discard whole shallot and bay leaf. Stir mushroom mixture into milk mixture and briefly warm through. Serve hot.

PER CUP: 323 CAL.; 16G PROT.; 8G TOTAL FAT (2G SAT. FAT); 47G CARB.; 10MG CHOL; 669MG SOD.; 7G FIBER

Wild Mushroom Soup

6 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE

Chef Ina Pinkney, of Ina's Kitchen in Chicago, always freezes leftover wild rice just so she can have it for this soup. (If you have leftover wild rice, you'll need I cup.) The stems of most mushrooms can be used if any woody ends are trimmed off first; however, shiitake stems are usually tough and must be discarded (or saved to flavor soups, sauces and stocks).

1/2 tsp. salt
1/3 cup uncooked wild rice, well rinsed
2 Tbs. olive oil
3 medium cloves garlic, minced
1 medium onion, chopped
2 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme
  or 4 tsp. dried
1 lb. mixed mushrooms, such as
  shiitake, oyster and cremini,
  chopped
6 cups vegetable broth
1/4 tsp. freshly ground white pepper
1 Tbs. dry sherry (optional)

IN MEDIUM SAUCEPAN, bring 1 cup water and salt to a boil. Stir in wild rice and return to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer until tender, about 55 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Meanwhile, in large saucepan, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add garlic, onion and thyme and cook, stirring often, 2 minutes. Add mushrooms, reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is tender, about 7 minutes. Add broth and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer 20 minutes.

Transfer half of soup to blender and blend until almost pureed. Return to saucepan and stir in wild rice and pepper. Return to a simmer over medium-high heat. Cover, reduce heat to low and simmer 10 minutes. Adjust seasoning to taste. Just before serving, stir in sherry if desired.

PER SERVING: 177 CAL.; 5G PROT.; 5G TOTAL FAT ([is greater than]1G SAT. FAT); 12G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 367MG SOD.; 2G FIBER

Soba Noodles with Vegetables and Miso-Mushroom Broth

8 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE[30]

A savory and satisfying main dish created and served by chef Susie Crofton in her namesake Chicago restaurant, Crofton on Wells. Choose miso depending on how assertive you like the flavor: White is mildest, red is strong and yellow tastes somewhere between the two. Be sure not to overcook the noodles.

2 large cloves garlic
1/2 cup miso
1 lb. shiitake mushrooms, stemmed
  and sliced
1-lb. pkg. soba (buckwheat) noodles
  (see glossary, p. 123)
1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups cut-up or small whole mixed
  vegetables, such as carrots,
  Chinese or green cabbage,
  Brussels sprouts, thin
  green beans, peas and/or
  snow peas

ON CUTTING BOARD, mince 1 clove garlic, then mash into paste using flat side of knife; set aside. Crush remaining clove garlic and set aside.

In large saucepan, whisk together miso and 6 cups water until miso dissolves. Add garlic paste and mushrooms and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer until mushrooms are tender, 5 to 6 minutes.

Uncover pan, increase heat to high and return to a boil. Add noodles; stir to separate. Cover, reduce heat to low and simmer until noodles are just barely tender, about 5 minutes. Turn off heat; do not remove cover.

While noodles are cooking, in large skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add crushed garlic and cook, turning often, until browned, about 3 minutes. Discard garlic. Increase heat to medium-high, add mixed vegetables and cook, stirring, until tender and beginning to brown, 7 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat.

Divide noodles, mushrooms and broth among 8 heated shallow serving bowls. Top each with some vegetables and serve hot.

PER SERVING: 159 CAL.; 9G PROT.; 3G TOTAL FAT (0 SAT. FAT); 35G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 678MG SOD.; 4G FIBER

Three-Mushroom Medley

6 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE

This exotic winner, from chefs Rafih and Rita Benjelloun of The Imperial Fez in Atlanta, is great with flatbread and makes a fabulous entree when served with whole-wheat couscous. Preserved lemons in jars are available at Middle Eastern grocery stores, as is the super hot red pepper puree known as harissa--just a few dabs will do.

2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
1 large green bell pepper, diced
1 large onion, diced
3 medium cloves garlic, minced
1 Tbs. sweet Hungarian paprika
  or 1 1/2 tsp. hot Hungarian paprika
1 ripe large tomato, diced
1/2 to 1 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. freshly ground pepper
1/2 preserved lemon half, seeded
   and julienned (optional)
1 1/2 lbs. mixed mushrooms, such as
  portobello, oyster and shiitake,
  chopped
3 stems fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
3 stems fresh cilantro, chopped
12-oz. pkg. whole-wheat or regular
  couscous
10 pitted green Spanish olives
Harissa for serving (optional)

IN LARGE NONSTICK SKILLET, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add bell pepper and onion and cook, stirring, until vegetables are just tender, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and paprika and cook, stirring, 1 minute.

Add tomato, salt, pepper and half of julienned lemon if using. Cook 1 minute, stirring. Add one-third of the mushrooms and cook, stirring, until they begin to release their juices, 2 to 3 minutes. Add another third of mushrooms and cook, stirring, 2 to 3 minutes. Add remaining mushrooms and cook until all mushrooms are tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in parsley and cilantro and cook 1 minute more. Remove from heat.

Meanwhile, prepare couscous according to package directions. Mound couscous on large platter, surround with mushroom mixture and garnish with olives and remaining julienned lemon if using. Serve with a small dish of harissa if desired.

PER SERVING: 305 CAL.; 10G PROT.; 6G TOTAL FAT ([is greater than] 1G SAT. FAT); 54G CARD.; 0 CHOL.; 349MG SOD.; 6G FIBER

Warm Mushroom Salad

4 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE[30]

Chef Bob Williamson of Quail Valley Lodge in Monterey, Calif., always uses half a dozen varieties of exotic mushrooms--or more, depending on the season--in his creative menus. This salad features one of his personal favorites, the chanterelle. If you eat dairy products, goat cheese sprinkled on top makes a nice finishing touch.

Raspberry vinaigrette

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
 1 Tbs. raspberry vinegar
 2 dried apricots, very finely
   chopped
1/4 tsp. coarse salt
1/8 tsp. freshly ground pepper
 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
 1 large shallot, finely chopped
 8 oz. chanteretles or other mushrooms,
   sliced
1/4 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
  or pinch of dried
5 to 6 Tbs. dry white wine
1/4 tsp. coarse salt
1/8 tsp. freshly ground pepper
4 cups mixed baby lettuces

VINAIGRETTE: In large glass or ceramic bowl, whisk together all ingredients until well combined. Set aside to let flavors blend.

Meanwhile, in medium skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add shallot and cook, stirring often, until tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Add mushrooms and thyme and cook, stirring often, until tender and they begin to release their juices, 4 to 5 minutes, adding wine as needed to prevent scorching. Remove from heat. Season with salt and pepper.

Add lettuces to vinaigrette and toss to coat. Divide among plates, then spoon mushrooms on top. Serve warm.

PER SERVING: 193 CAL.; 2G PROT.; 17G TOTAL FAT (2G SAT. FAT); 7G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 274MG SOD.; 2G FIBER

Penne with Mushroom, Fennel and Dill Cream

6 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE

From chef Eric Tucker of San Francisco's acclaimed Millennium restaurant comes this flavorful pasta dish. You can make the sauce ahead of time--cool, cover and refrigerate for up to three days. Rewarm gently to serve. If desired you can replace the mushroom stock with 2 cups of vegetable broth.

Mushroom stock

2 cups vegetable broth
1 Tbs. dried porcini mushrooms,
  rinsed
1 Tbs. olive oil
4 medium cloves garlic, minced
2 medium leeks (white parts only),
  thinly sliced
1 medium fennel bulb (about 1 lb.),
  thinly sliced
10 oz. mixed mushrooms, such as
  cremini, chanterelle and button,
  chopped
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 cup dry sherry, port or nonalcoholic
   white wine
1 Tbs. minced fresh thyme or lemon
  thyme or 1 tsp. dried
2 tsp. nutritional yeast (see glossary, p. 123)
1 tsp. minced fresh dill, plus additional
  for garnish
1/2 tsp. grated lemon peel
1/4 tsp. ground nutmeg
12 oz. dried penne pasta
1 1/4 cups Cashew Cream (recipe, p. 53)
  cup fresh lemon juice (from 3 lemons)
1 tsp. brine-packed green peppercorns,
  drained (optional)(see glossary, p. 123)
1/4 tsp. pink peppercorns (optional)
  (see glossary, p. 123)

MUSHROOM STOCK: In medium saucepan, heat broth until warm. Remove pan from heat, add porcini and let soak 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, bring large pot of lightly salted water to a boil for pasta. In large skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add garlic, leeks and fennel and cook, stirring often, until leeks are tender and lightly browned, about 10 minutes.

Remove porcini from broth with slotted spoon. Coarsely chop porcini; strain broth and set aside.

Stir all mushrooms (fresh and dried) and salt into leek mixture and cook 5 minutes, reducing heat if necessary. Add sherry; stir to scrape up brown bits from bottom of pan. Stir in thyme, yeast, 1 teaspoon dill, lemon peel and nutmeg and cook 1 minute more.

Add reserved broth and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and simmer, stirring occasionally, 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, add pasta to boiling water; stir to prevent sticking. Cook until just tender, about 10 minutes. Drain well and return to cooking pot.

Remove mushroom mixture from heat and stir in Cashew Cream, lemon juice, green peppercorns and pink peppercorns if using. Add mushroom sauce to pasta, toss I to combine and serve right away, garnished with fresh dill.

PER SERVING: 260 CAL.; 8G PROT.; 8G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 336 CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 286MG SOD.; 6G FIBER

Recipe adapted from The Millennium Cookbook by Eric Tucker and John Westerdahl (Ten Speed Press, 1998).

Cashew Cream

MAKES 1 1/4 CUPS DAIRY-FREE[30]

This delicious sauce can be prepared up to 4 days ahead and refrigerated in an airtight container.

1/2 cup unsalted cashews (3 oz.)

IN BLENDER, combine cashews and cup water. Blend until coarsely pureed.

Gradually add another 1/2 cup water and blend until mixture is smooth. Add more water if needed to thin to consistency of heavy cream.

PER TABLESPOON: 20 CAL.; [is greater than]1G PROT.; 2G TOTAL FAT (0 SAT. FAT); 1G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; [is greater than]1MG SOD.; 0 FIBER

Ragu Raves

Here are some great ways to use a mushroom ragu:

* Toss 2 to 3 cups with 1 pound cooked pasta (the creamy ragu on p. 48 is especially good with whole-wheat or spinach noodles). Sprinkle with freshly grated Parmesan if desired.

* Spoon a little over cooked polenta.

* Use as a savory omelet filling or to top a frittata.

* Spoon over cooked asparagus, zucchini, cauliflower or squash, such as butternut, acorn or spaghetti squash.

* Use to fill or top crepes.

* Top ready-made or homemade vegetarian burgers.

* Use to top a baked potato.

* Spread over toasted, olive-oil brushed Italian bread slices.

Mushroom Primer

These mushrooms, many cultivated and some wild, can be found in many supermarket produce sections.

* BEECH: A medium-size tan or ivory capped mushroom with a firm, crunchy texture and sweet nutty flavor.

* CHANTERELLE: This pretty mushroom (pictured) has a gold trumpet-shaped cap with a wavy rolled edge and a firm stalk that narrows toward the base. It has a firm texture and fragrant, peppery apricot flavor that mellows with cooking.

* CREMINI: Similar to the white button mushroom in size and shape, the cremini has a darker color, firmer texture and richer flavor.

* ENOKI: This cream-colored Asian mushroom has a long thin stem topped with a small spherical cap. It has a mild citrus flavor and a very crunchy texture.

* LOBSTER: So named because the color of this mushroom resembles that of cooked lobster. It has a rippled cap, crunchy texture and delicate flavor.

* MOREL: This seasonal wild mushroom is much sought after by chefs for its smoky, earthy flavor. It has a spongy, honeycombed cap and ranges in color from tan to dark brown. The texture is somewhat chewy and the flavor is a cross between caraway and sweet peppers.

* OYSTER: Pale tan or grey with a stubby stem and graceful fan-shaped smooth cap, this mushroom has a delicate, subtle oysterlike flavor and silky texture.

* PORCINI: Known as the king of mushrooms for its pronounced aroma, firm meaty texture and deep, earthy flavor, the porcini has a fat stem and cap that ranges from three to five inches across. Fresh porcini (also known as cepes or boletes) can be expensive and hard to find, but these mushrooms are always available dried.

* PORTOBELLO: Among the giants of the mushroom world, the cap of a portobello mushroom can reach 10 inches in diameter. It has a sturdy stem and thick, flat deep brown cap with a firm "meaty" texture and rich earthy flavor. If desired, the black gills inside the cap can be easily scraped off with a paring knife.

* POMPOM: Resembling a large powder puff, this mushroom has an extremely firm texture and a flavor similar to that of cooked lobster.

* SHIITAKE: Also called Chinese black mushroom, the shiitake has a firm "meaty" texture and subtly sweet flavor. The flat caps are dark brown in color and the fibrous stems are too tough to eat but are great for flavoring stocks.

* WHITE BUTTON: The basic domestic mushroom. Always available and always an asset to the cook.

* WOOD EAR: Black and brown mushroom with a whirled, earlike shape, commonly used in Asian dishes. The texture is very crunchy and does not soften with cooking and the flavor is subtle and mild.

Fungi Finesse

Get the best from your mushrooms by following these simple tips.

* Purchase mushrooms with firm caps and stems that have no bruised spots. Check for a fresh fragrance.

* Store immediately in a paper bag in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. Do not wash mushrooms until ready to use; moisture and warm air cause spoilage.

* Store dried mushrooms in an airtight container in a cool, dry place up to 1 year.

* When ready to use, clean by trimming and discarding stem bottoms (where dirt is naturally present) and wiping off loose dirt around caps with a clean damp cloth or paper towel. You may clean mushrooms by immersing briefly in lukewarm water, but rinse and pat dry quickly as they will absorb water. Too much water content makes sauteing and grilling difficult.

* Use the whole mushroom, cap and stem. Slice caps of most mushrooms (except for mushrooms with irregular or small caps, such as chanterelles or enoki). Trim stems of all woody or fibrous ends and discard, then chop, thinly slice or dice.

Cap It Off

Here are some creative ideas for using mushrooms to enhance everyday meals.

* Add to fresh salads, soups, sauces, stir-fries, omelets, frittatas and even scrambled eggs.

* Saute in olive oil and add to pasta dishes, rice, baked potatoes and vegetables, such as peas, green beans, asparagus and broccoli.

* Chop sauteed mushrooms and spoon onto garlic toast for instant crostini or bruschetta.

* Top off just about any sandwich filling, from grilled vegetables and grilled cheese to egg and tofu salads to vegetable burgers.

Nancy Ross Ryan is a Chicago-based freelance food writer and recipe developer.

COPYRIGHT 1999 Sabot Publishing
COPYRIGHT 2000 Gale Group