sunken treasures - seaweed in cookery

Versatile sea vegetables are a gold mine of nutrition and flavor

The mere mention of eating seaweed can conjure up strange images for many of us. But you may be surprised to learn that you've probably been eating seaweed most of your life. In fact, one type, carrageen, has long been used as a thickener in puddings, ice cream and other commercial food products.

Seaweeds, or sea vegetables, have been prized since ancient times for their nutrient-rich qualities. Especially popular in Japan, these gifts from the sea are incorporated into soups, salads, appetizers, entrees and even desserts. They are also harvested and enjoyed in New Zealand, Britain, Ireland and many parts of Europe. Until recently, however, sea vegetables were virtually unheard of in the United States, except by sushi and macrobiotic enthusiasts, who value them as an important part of the diet.

These days, creative American chefs are turning to a variety of sea vegetables for their texture and flavor, which can range from delicate and mild to salty and spicy. They are also being recognized for their health benefits, including high concentrations of protein, calcium and other vitamins and minerals--especially those that are hard for vegetarians to get, like iron and [B.sub.12]. Perhaps the best-known sea vegetable is nori, the glossy purplish black sheets used to make sushi rolls, or "maki." Sushi isn't just about raw fish. Numerous all-vegetable maki rolls are available at Japanese restaurants and many supermarkets.

While most sea vegetables are versatile enough to add to soups or salads or cook with vegetables or grains, a few are used in unique ways. Agar-agar, for example, makes an excellent vegan alternative to gelatin, which is derived from animal by-products. Agar's natural jelling property adds thickness and stability to puddings and other desserts. And kombu, or kelp, helps dried beans cook faster and aids digestion.

When purchasing sea vegetables, it is best to buy only certified organic varieties. Less expensive sea vegetables are sold at some Asian markets, but the superior quality of organic brands is worth the extra money. Since sea vegetables are sold in dehydrated form, they can be stored airtight in a cool dark place, such as a kitchen cupboard, and will keep indefinitely. Remember that a small bag of sea vegetables can go a long way, since only a small amount is used in recipes.

The soaking time varies depending on the type of vegetable, and some expand considerably more than others. For correct preparation, follow individual instructions on the package or in the recipe. Often, people new to sea vegetables prepare too much at first, not realizing how much the seaweeds expand. Since the vitamin and mineral content of sea vegetables is so concentrated, you only need to eat a small portion (about 1/3 cup) of sea vegetables two to three times per week for maximum benefit.

An easy way to get acquainted with these natural treasures is by sampling the array of sea vegetable convenience foods that are available for both seasoning and snacking. Ready-to-use shakers filled with flakes of dulse, kelp or nori can be used as salt substitutes or to season foods while adding vitamins and minerals. (The next time you make popcorn, sprinkle on dulse instead of salt.) Snack food lovers may also enjoy organic corn tortilla chips seasoned with kelp and dulse plus garlic and onion powder in place of salt. Or, for a change from regular pickles, bite into a sea pickle made with fresh kelp that has been pickled with shoyu soy sauce, rice vinegar and garlic. There are even sweet and chewy snack bars made with organic kelp blended with barley malt, maple syrup, vanilla and either peanuts, raisins or sesame seeds.

Sea vegetables are a useful and interesting way to expand your pantry. The cook's guide, "Learning the Ropes," on p. 28, gives a detailed description of the more common types and their uses.

resources

Cookbooks

Cooking with Sea Vegetables by Peter Bradford (Inner Traditions International, 1998)

Seaweed, a Cook's Guide: Tempting Recipes for Seaweed and Sea Vegetables by Leslie Ellis (Fisher Books, 1999)

Suppliers

* MAINE COAST SEA VEGETABLES, Franklin, ME 04634; www.seaveg.com or email at info@seaveg.com

* EDEN FOODS, INC., 701 Tecumseh Road, Clinton, MI 49236; call (888) 424-EDEN; or email www.edenfoods.com

ROBIN ROBERTSON is a food columnist, cooking teacher and author of seven vegetarian cookbooks, including her new book, Rice & Spice (Harvard Common Press, 2000). She invites readers to log on to her web site at www.robin-robertson.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: learning the ropes

* Agar-Agar (AY-gar) Also called kanten in Japan, agar-agar is a natural jelling alternative that is virtually tasteless. It is used to make gelatin-type desserts and aspics and is available in flakes or bars. Agar-agar is especially rich in iodine.

* Alaria [a-LAH-ree-ah]: This sea vegetable is harvested from the eastern seaboard of North America; once dried it is black or dark green in color. It's high in calcium, vitamin A and B vitamins. Alaria is good in stews and grain dishes and can also be used in miso soup instead of the traditional wakame.

* Arame (AR-ah-may): A mild-tasting sea vegetable from Japan with a delicate, almost sweet flavor. It is especially good in soups, or combined with tofu or vegetables. Arame is rich in calcium and iodine.

* Carrageen (KEHR-ah-geen): Also called Irish moss, carrageen is used as a thickening agent in soups, stews and sauces, as well as in several commercial products. It also has been used medicinally to treat digestive and urinary disorders and chronic chest infections. Carrageen is rich in minerals, especially iodine, as well as vitamin A.

* Dulse (duhlss): Reddish in color with a soft, chewy texture, dulse can be eaten right out of the package or cooked quickly and added to recipes. It has a salty, spicy flavor and can be used in salads and stir-fries or lightly fried and eaten as a snack. It is native to the North Atlantic coasts and has a long history in northern European cultures. Extremely high in protein, iron and vitamin B6 (one cup provides 100 percent of the RDA for iron and B6), dulse is also rich in vitamin B12, potassium and fluoride. When fried, it makes a delicious bacon alternative in a BLT sandwich. Its appealing taste makes it a good introductory sea vegetable for beginners and children.

* Hijiki (hee-JEE-kee): This sea vegetable is one of the strongest-tasting varieties. It is often sauteed with vegetables or used in soups, and it pairs particularly well with onions and root vegetables. In its dehydrated form, hijiki resembles black strings. Extraordinarily high in calcium and iron, it expands up to five times its dry volume when cooked, so keep that in mind when measuring out.

* Kelp: The kelps are large brown seaweeds that grow together in underwater forests. They are used in soups and stews, stir-fried with vegetables or cooked with beans or grains. Kelp cooks quickly and dissolves in longer-cooking dishes. High in calcium, potassium, magnesium and iron, kelp is also a good source of chromium and iodine. It can be pre-soaked or added dry to foods with liquids. Kelp expands up to five times its dry weight when it is used in liquid.

* Kombu (KOHM-boo): This Japanese seaweed is used to make dashi, an Asian soup stock, and to flavor rice and stews. Usually sold dried, in strips or in sheets, it is dark green, almost black in color. Kombu is often called "natural MSG" and is used to boost the flavor of soups, stews and grains and tenderize beans.

* Laver (LAY-vuhr): Indigenous to the North Atlantic, laver is purplish black in color and related to nori. It's especially good dry-roasted to bring out its nutty flavor. It can then be crumbled and used as a nutritious condiment to sprinkle over soups, salads or grain dishes. Laver has a long history in the British Isles, where it is combined with rolled oats and fried as a breakfast bread.

* Nori (NOH-ree): Belonging to the laver family of sea vegetables, nori is deep purple in color but turns dark green when toasted. It is noted for its role in sushi-making and is available in ready-to-use sheets. It can also be chopped or crumbled to use in soups and salads.

* Wakame (WAH-kah-may): Leafy and mild in flavor, wakame turns green after soaking. Traditionally added to miso soup, wakame is also good with other vegetables or in salads, stir-fries or rice dishes. It is rich in calcium, with high levels of B vitamins and vitamin C.

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