FIVE GREAT IRISH FISH RESTAURANTS

Caviston's Seafood Restaurant (00 353 1 280 9245/9120), Sandycove, Co Dublin. A small, simple room of nine tables, open only for lunch, yet such dishes as scallop of salmon with saffron basil and roast cod fillet with red wine jus and mild curry sauce (pounds 8) make Caviston's the best fish restaurant in Ireland.

Kealy's Seafood Bar (00 353 77 81010), The Harbour, Greencastle, Co Donegal.

James Kealy's pub restaurant on the Inishowen peninsula offers unfussy seafood terrine in Japanese seaweed and grilled wild Atlantic salmon.

Five-course table d'hte dinner pounds 19; bar food during the day from pounds 1.50; wine list of about 20 wines.

Chez Youen (00 353 28 20136), The Pier, Baltimore, Co Cork. Frenchman Youen Jacob came to southwest Ireland 30 years ago, fell in love with a local girl and opened his Breton-style restaurant. He serves seafood platters simply, in the shell.

Popular with holiday-homeowning celebs like Sir David Puttnam and Jeremy Irons.

Moran's Oyster Cottage (00 353 91 796113), The Weir, Kilcolgan, Co Galway.

In a thatched cottage on Galway Bay, Moran's is peerless for Guinness and oysters. Since 1760, it has served world-class molluscs from neighbouring Clarinbridge, home to a September oyster festival. Fine smoked salmon, prawns and mussels, too.

The Tannery (00 353 58 45420), 10 Quay Street, Dungarvan, Co Waterford. Not devoted exclusively to fish, but celebrated chef- patron Paul Flynn presents a menu brimming with gutsy, modern seafood dishes. Highlights include seared tuna with a dressing of creme fraiche and lime, and fillet of John Dory with a morel and parma ham cream. Stylish dining room, too.

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