Carrying on - Phyllis Swan continues fashion firm of Isaia N.Y.C. after founder's death

CARRYING ON

Call her by her rightful name, Phyllis Swan. Or by her title, CEO - chief executive officer. Whatever you call her, know that Swan (second from right) is firmly in charge at Isaia N.Y.C., the company that's producing some of the brightest, kickiest clothes around. Isaia N.Y.C. was founded in 1979 by a young Black designer who gave the company his name and his vision. Swan had known Isaia Rankin since their high-school days in Cincinnati and had worked for him almost from the label's start. When Rankin died last year, Swan, whose petite stature belies formidable strength of character, hung tough against industry jitters and against associates and relatives of Isaia who opposed her assuming the leadership role. The struggle even turned physical. But Swan emerged as partner and CEO. "I had a conviction to continue Isaia's work," Swan says. And she proceeded with very clear ideas about where she would take the label. Swan also has the superb skills of two Black men - head designer Michael McCollom and sales and marketing director Yvens de Thelismond - and a "tremendous" staff. "Isaia's motto was `sleek, sensual and modern,'" Swan remembers. He found his dream fabric in Lycra and launched a line of form-embracing, short, tight skirts, minidresses and neck-to-ankle catsuits. This season designer McCollom takes the line further, to a collection including vibrantly colored fake-fur coats and jackets and easy-to-wear separates. With Swan's direction and winning team, Isaia N.Y.C. will stay far ahead of the pack for a long time to come.

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