Fall fashion focus

FALL FASHION FOCUS

The most important looks for fall-winter 1990? The hottest colors are bright, spicy, earth and metallic tones, in masterful combinations of patterns, fabrics and textures inspired by African, Asian and Russian cultures. Bare dresses under jackets for day, on their own at night; scarves of all sizes; jewerly from natural elements. There are no dramatic silhouette changes, so you won't have to spend a lot on a new wardrobe. Here are guidelines to help you update last year's purchases and make this year's smart choices. The length of it. Hemlines are short! Even though micromini lengths (21 inches and shorter) are on the scene, the skirts we'll really wear, especially for work, will hover around the knees - at 23 to 25 inches. Try one of the new "skorts" (combined skirt and shorts), or take a favorite piece of cultural cloth and wrap it as a skirt to coordinate with your blazer and soften your suited look [see Essence, July 1989]. Jackets. Invest in an unconstructed jacket; this all-around piece can update your entire wardrobe. Look for one that's single-buttoned, or has a draped closure, or is extra long. One in curry or bright red, pink or orange can revive classic dark skirts and pants. To update an old jacket: * Belt it at the waist (soft jackets work best). * Wear it with a wrap top or a shell, or fill in the neckline with a scarf. * Embellish it with cultural or golden touches. For evening, pair the jacket with a halter or bustier, and wear bold earrings. Color. Have fun with color. Mix them as our sisters in the Motherland do - red with green, orange with blue, gold with mahogany. Fabrics. Take fabrics usually associated with daytime - such as flannel and tweed - and try wearing them for evening. Incorporate velvet, lace and brocade into your daytime looks. Layer it. One unitard goes a long way. Work it under long jackets or under sarong and wrap skirts, or wear it alone under a hiplength jacket, if you dare. The word on accessories. The array of exciting accessories available this season is the least expensive way to update your look. Consider scarves in all sizes in wonderful cultural fabrics or in a new metallic combination. One oversize patterned shawl makes a dramatic cultural statement. Create imaginative body wraps, belts and sashes and fancy drapes for neck and shoulders. Select gloves, belts, hats and handbags in bright, spice or metallic colors. Or embellish the ones already in your closet with appliques, metallic trim, jewels, beads, shells or patches of African cloth. Cultural finds. Before you hit the department store, let's support our own. Find out where the local sisters and brothers sell cultural merchandise. You'll find what's exotic to fashion designers is everyday fare to folks whose culture is their inspiration. From San Francisco's Chinatown to New York's 125th Street African Mart, boutiques and street vendors offer authentic ethnic clothing, fabrics and accessories at reasonable prices.

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