Montreal on My Mind - Brief Article

Susan McHenry explores Old World France--in Canada

MONTREAL, THE SECOND-LARGEST FRENCH-SPEAKING city in the world, really works as a weekend-getaway destination for a busy urban sister with an overly long to-do list. I was especially delighted that I could relax en route during the spectacularly scenic one-day railway excursion from New York City to Canada. Departing from Pennsylvania Station and costing only $104 round-trip, the daily Amtrak train known as The Adirondack leaves at 7:50 A.M. and arrives by 5:30 P.M. in Montreal. The trip takes you north the length of New York State--past the forested cliffs of the Hudson River Valley, then through a series of serene upstate New York towns and finally through the Adirondack wilderness before entering Canada. A short cab ride from downtown Montreal's Central Station, the narrow cobblestone streets and warehouse storefronts of Vieux Montreal (Old Montreal) shout Old World France. The waterfront district, dating from the sixteenth century but now bustling with twenty-first-century cosmopolitan life, perfectly suited my agenda--leisurely poking around in galleries, museums and unusual little boutiques on cozy side streets.

I was fortunate to get reservations at Auberge Les Passants du Sans Soucy, a unique bed-and-breakfast in a renovated warehouse on Rue St. Paul. Sans Soucy is co-owned by a talented brother from Windsor, Ontario, with his French-Canadian partner. The B & B's nine spacious rooms are French country-style pretty, but also equipped with such city luxuries as a marble bathroom with a whirlpool bath.

Everything I wanted was within easy walking distance. I found my exquisite dinner just two blocks away at Chez Delmo, a four-star restaurant. I befriended another American woman dining on her own, and we ventured forth for a low-key exploration of local nightlife. We drank kirs at L'Air du Temps, one of many trendy spots on Rue St. Paul offering live jazz, and ended our evening around midnight over a Drambuie nightcap at Cafe Brandy on the same street. I also recommend Riddle's, a now legendary Black-owned restaurant and jazz club in downtown Montreal, presided over by a Philadelphia-born bassist who settled in Montreal in the 1950's.

Must-take: The Berlitz Montreal Pocket Guide (Berlitz Travel Guide, $8.95). This handy book helps you navigate through the city--geographically, culturally and linguistically.

Must-see: The panoramic view of the city from Olympic Park's Montreal Tower, the world's tallest inclined tower (ascended by aerial cable car). Call (514) 252-8687, $9.00.

Must-do: Attend Sunday morning services at Union United Church in the Old Burgundy district, the historic heart of Montreal's original Black community. Call (514) 932-8731.

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