This season's Cape Town

ALL winter Cape Town awaits the arrival of The Season. The southern hemisphere cool-down during our summertime creates a buzz of expectancy about the next few months that's like a flame-red flower emerging into the light.

Now's the time the city's good-time girls and boys resurface from their reluctant hibernation and come out to play. Like other hip cities by the sea, there's plenty to keep them occupied long into the night. And for us, there's the bonus - with the exchange rate holding at 16 rand to the pound - of it all costing a fraction of what it does back home. Vibrant, colourful and winningly casual, in less than a decade South Africa's Mother (of a) City has gone from global pariah to latest playground of the Western world. This season Cape Town is

Being seen at Beluga. Located in an old foundry, this New York- style bar and power restaurant is where Bill Clinton held court with thespy travelling companions, Kevin Spacey and Chris Tucker.

Hanging out at Rhodes House. This sprawling former residence, with its leather sofas, bars and whirring wooden fans, is just about the smartest club in CT right now. Great for spotting gipsy-look models in ruched tops and dodgy dudes in designer dress shirts.

Staying in the West Room at Hemingway House. Cape Town's coolest new boutique hotel, converted from a grand Masonic lodge with an open courtyard, has a sumptuous and supremely elegant neocolonial interior styled by energetic owner Josie Hemingway. It has only four bedrooms, the best of which has a four-poster and views of Table Mountain.

Hitting the bars and clubs along Somerset Road. Super-tolerant Cape Town is one of the best cities in the world in which to be gay (www.mcqp.co.za for info). Get to town on 14 December and you will catch the celebrations of the all-night costume party hosted by the Mother City Queer Project - it's enough to give Sydney a run for its Mardi.

Sipping a sundowner is a summer institution in beachside Camps Bay and picking the best spot for a caipirinha or two a matter of fine judgment.

Avoid touristy Blues or Baraza, and watch the promenade at sleek, modernist bar/caf Caprice.

Booking ahead for Wakame, CT's hottest new eaterie (021 433 2377). Opened in September, this light and breezy Pacific Rim restaurant on the seafront in regenerating Mouille Point is run by ex-Daphne's and Hempel chef Deon Berg.

Quickstepping it to kwaito, South Africa's very own urban musical mix.

Getting the Cape Town country vibe by lunching in Constantia. Only 20 minutes from the city centre, the verdant Constantia Valley is where you'll find one of the city's best restaurants, Constantia Uitsig (021 794 4480), housed in an original Dutch homestead surrounded by vineyards.

Not getting caught waiting to get home. If you need a ride, call an Excite cab (021 418 4444). They're metered and safe.

Savouring one of 400 malts at the Bascule whisky bar in the Cape Grace hotel along the V&A Waterfront. On Friday nights it's all very grownup and quite a scene.

Shopping for contemporary craftworks at Heartworks on Kloof Street, a new emporium for ceramics, beadwork and jewellery created by southern Africa artists and in local community workshops.

Taking a township tour. Experience a few more of the Rainbow Nation's extreme contrasts: one of the best is led by informed Neville St Claire. Call Our Pride Tours on 082 446 7974 and 021 531 4291.

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