A shining tour of the coast: take a three-day tour of seven Oregon lighthouses - Travel

I climbed the last three stairs and slowly poked my head up into the watch room of Hecera Head Lighthouse. Through the windows, I could see for miles up and down the rocky central Oregon coast and far out to sea. Gulls soared above the cliffs, and sea lions hauled themselves out to sun in a nearby cove. In the center of the lantern, towering above me and slowly revolving, was the watchful eye of the lighthouse: an enormous, century-old glass lens, sparkling and flashing like a diamond.

For just a minute or two, I felt connected to the churning mysteries of the sea and to those who had spent their lives watching over it. And I understood why so many people are willing to volunteer time and money to help protect Oregon's lighthouses.

The U.S. Coast Guard is currently in the process of transferring ownership of the state's nine public coastal beacons to federal, state, and nonprofit agencies, now that oceangoing vessels navigate by technologies such as the Global Positioning System (GPS). The new owners will be responsible for the lighthouses' upkeep and will administer them as public landmarks. Jim Gibbs, marine historian, author, and former lighthouse keeper, says the future looks bright. "The transfer of the lighthouses to qualified public or governmental organizations means that these unique structures will remain open and accessible to visitors and will receive the ongoing maintenance they require," he says.

In other words, there's more reason than ever to visit and celebrate these coastal treasures.

Seven beacons of the sea

Oregon's lighthouses were all but inaccessible when they were built in the 19th century, near shoals and sandbars, treacherous offshore rocks and reefs. These days, U.s. 101 links seven of them (the other two are on inaccessible offshore islands) along a gorgeous, approximately 220-mile coastal drive that can easily be tackled in three days.

The grounds are generally open year-round, but because many lighthouses are closed to visitors between November and March, April is one of the best months to visit. The weather along the Oregon coast, though always unpredictable, is warmer, and the highways aren't yet crowded.

The lighthouses that follow are listed from south to north. Look for turnoff signs from U.S. 101 that point to the state parks or scenic areas where the lighthouses are located. All of the lighthouses are within a few miles of towns with motels, B&Bs, and restaurants. Call ahead to confirm hours of operation and tour times.

Cape Blanco

Cape Blanco is one of the windiest spots in Oregon; its lighthouse was built to withstand winter winds of up to 140 mph. The oldest of Oregon's continuously operating lighthouses, it is scheduled to reopen in May after its roof has been replaced and its giant lens cleaned. The lighthouse stands at the end of a gorgeous drive that winds past the Sixes River, the beautifully restored Hughes House (an 1898 Eastlake Victorian open for tours), and a tiny pioneer cemetery with the graves of the area's Irish homesteaders. Wide, curving beaches below the treeless headland are accessible by trail. Tours 10-3:30 Thu-Mon May 1-Oct 31 (Hughes House tours 10-3:30 Apr 3-Oct 31); free. Cape Blanco State Park, 9 miles north of Port Orford; (541) 332-6774.

Coquille River

The small Coquille River Lighthouse, at the mouth of the river in Bandon, once guided passenger and cargo ships into the largest port between San Francisco and the Columbia River. The 1896 lighthouse is one of the few historic relics left in Bandon, a town that almost completely burned down in the 1930s. The first floor is filled with photographs and exhibits detailing the lighthouse's history; from there you can climb up to the compact lantern for a dazzling view of the town, the river, and the adjacent driftwood-strewn white-sand beach. Tours Wed-Sun in Apr, daily May-Oct; free. Bullards Beach State Park Bandon; (541) 347-2209.

Umpqua River

The first incarnation of this lighthouse at the treacherous mouth of the Umpqua River began operating in 1857, before Oregon was even a state, but toppled over in 1864. The light-house that stands today was inaugurated 30 years later. A small museum is packed with photos and displays that shed light on the Umpqua River, once an important shipping artery. Tours 10-4 Mon and Wed-Sat and 1-4 Sun, May 1-Sep 30; $2 (museum 10-5 Mon, Wed-Sat and 1-5 Sun; free). Douglas County Park Department, about 6 miles south of Reedsport; (541) 440-4500 or (541) 271-4631.

Heceta Head

First lit in 1894 on a forested headland 150 feet above the sea, Heceta Head is on many counts Oregon's most remarkable lighthouse. For one thing, its lens is the strongest light on the state's coast, visible for up to 21 miles. For another, this is the only lighthouse that still retains its original assistant keepers' quarters. Now a B&B renowned for its seven-course gourmet breakfasts, the white clapboard Victorian duplex overlooks miles of rugged headlands and is said to be haunted by the ghost of a lighthouse keeper's wife. But many consider Heceta Head's real glory to be its wild setting. One mile south of the lighthouse is Oregon's only sea-lion rookery home to many California and Steller sea lions. Lighthouse tours Mar-Oct (call for schedule); $3 per vehicle. Heceta Head Lighthouse State Scenic Viewpoint, US. 101, 13 miles north of Florence; (541) 547-3416 Heceta Lighthouse B&B, from $137; 92072 US. 101 S., Yachats; www.becetalighthouse.com or (541) 547-3696. Sea Lion Caves, www.sealioncaves.com or (54 1) 547-3111.

Yaquina Bay

Yaquina Bay Lighthouse is Newport's oldest building, dating from 1871, though it was in operation for only three years before a newer and larger light at Yaquina Head rendered it obsolete. As the last remaining wooden lighthouse in Oregon, it's a rare example of a structure that housed both the light and the lighthouse keeper's quarters. Wandering through this carefully restored Victorian relic, with its wooden-peg joists, hand-carved redwood gutters, and period furniture, it's difficult to believe that it was once so dilapidated that plans were in the works to demolish it. Thanks to the efforts of Newport citizens, in 1974 it was named to the National Register of Historic Places. Open for self-guided tours 12-4 daily Nov 1-Memorial Day, 11-5 daily Memorial Day-Oct 31. Yaquina Bay State Park, US. 101 at the north end of Yaquina Bay Bridge, Newport; (541) 265-5679.

Yaquina Head

This dazzling white 93-feet structure, the tallest tower in Oregon, is the centerpiece of the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area, where puffins, murres, cormorants, and harbor seals make their home. An excellent interpretive center has exhibits on local ecology as well as the lighthouse's history If you visit on weekends or during the summer, expect to wait up to an hour to climb the tower (110 stairs) for a glimpse of the Fresnel lens, which was shipped in sections from New York, across Panama, and up the Pacific coast. 10-4 daily Labor Day-Memorial Day, 10-5 daily Memorial Day-Labor Day; $5 per car Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area, about 4 miles north of Newport; (541) 574-3100.

Cape Meares

At 38 feet, this 1890 lighthouse is Oregon's shortest. The tree-lined path from the parking lot is the same one once used by the lighthouse keepers, who had to crawl on their hands and knees to reach the lighthouse when gale-force winds blew The stubby octagonal tower is dramatically poised on a sheer vertical cliff 217 feet above the Pacific. On beaches and offshore rocks, you can often see sea lions and nesting seabirds. The Octopus Tree, an ancient Sitka spruce with massive branches that rise up around a low central trunk like the arms of a candelabra, is a five-minute walk from the parking lot. Self-guided lighthouse visits Apr 1-Oct 31 (call for hours); free. Cape Meares State Scenic Viewpoint, Three Capes Scenic Route, 10 miles west of Tillamook and US. 101; (503)842-4981.

RELATED ARTICLE: Want to help?

To learn more about lighthouse preservation, contact the nonprofit, San Francisco-based United States Lighthouse Society (www.uslhs.org or 415/362-7255).

Yaquina Lights (www.yaguinalights.org or 541/574-3129) is a nonprofit dedicated to preserving the lighthouses at Yaquina Bay and Yaquina Head. For information on volunteer opportunities, contact the Oregon Parks and Recreation Department (www.oregonstateparks.org or 503/378-6305).

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