Holiday: Another 1,800 beers please barman ...

"THERE are 1,800 different beers in Belgium," the barman announced proudly, gesturing at the bottles on the shelves behind him.

We were in a cosy little bar just off Bruges' market square. My wife, who had insisted we stop "for a coffee" as we strolled around this magnificent medieval city, looked worried.

The barman had my undivided attention. "There's dark beer," he said. "Or there's light beer."

"What about the strength?" I asked.

"Belgian beers are all strong," he said. "Some are just stronger than others."

Several bottles later, and several francs lighter (what the barman failed to mention was that although Belgian beer is the best in the world, it isn't the cheapest - at least pounds 2 a small bottle), we emerged in the fading light.

It seemed a good time to retreat to our hotel, the Lucca, only a five-minute stumble away. The next day we were up for some serious sight-seeing.

If walking seems too strenuous you can hop on a bus, or for pounds 14 for 30 minutes take a horse and trap.

There is plenty to see. Turn any street corner and you see another beautiful building. Climb the 366 steps to the top of the Belfry tower in the market square for a magnificent view of the city. Tickets cost pounds 1.80, but be warned ... you need a head for heights. Stroll around the Minnewater - or lake of love. Nearby, take time to reflect in the picturesque walled Beguinage, home to an order of nuns.

The city hall in the Burg, with its Gothic hall, is a must. Next door is the 12th Century Basilica of Blood.

That evening, after drinking in the sights of Bruges, we decided to sample some more of its beer.

But this time, not too much.

FACT FILE

HOVERSPEED (08705 240 241) 3-day return, pounds 29 per person (Feb- May).

Hotel Lucca (00 32 50 342 067) pounds 49 for double room with breakfast.

Further information: Belgian Tourism, London (020 7458 0044).

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