Modeling safety cages for C&O switchers

I built my first safety cage switcher about 12 years ago. In fact, it was the first model that I ever entered in a C&OHS modeling contest. My model of No. 5090 was kitbashed from an Athearn SW-series switcher with a Tichy/Cannon cab. Not having any drawings, my model cage was based on photos in the C&O Diesel Review.

INSPIRATION

While looking through a box of drawings at the 2000 Hawks Nest C&O modelers' convention I happened upon a diesel switcher lettering diagram with the safety cage drawn on the cab view. To make matters even better I had also found a picture of NW2 No. 5060, which had the walk-through MU-style of cage. This view appears on the front cover of this issue.

A quick check showed the drawing to be 3/8" scale and quite accurate. I developed a full-cage template from this drawing and created a template for the MU version from the photograph of No. 5060.

FABRICATION

The first step in building a miniature version of the C&O safety cage is to glue a copy of the appropriate template to a piece of soft pine or Homasote, depending on how you are planning to solder it together. Steer away from the Homasote if you are planning to use a torch.

Use a solvent-based glue such as Ambroid to attach the template to your base, since a water-based white glue will wrinkle the paper.

Bend a frame for the cage from 1/32" brass wire (2-1/2" OD pipe). I found Kadee trip-pin pliers work well for making the curved bend. Where the handrails and support rods attach file a small flat on the wire and drill a #76 hole. Attach the frame pieces to the template with double-sided tape. This works well with resistance soldering.

Make the crossbars from .012" brass wire (1" OD pipe). Use more double-sided tape to hold the bars in place then add a piece of masking tape over the top for added insurance.

I used .032" diameter rosin-core solder, pounded flat on an anvil and cut into small pieces (1/32" to 1/16" square). The solder was held in place with a paste rosin flux, and acid paste flux would also work. The tricks are to use the paste to hold the solder in place and to heat the work up gently so the flux melts and evaporates, rather than boiling and shifting the piece of solder.

INSTALLATION

Install the finished cage on your model (mine is HO) by drilling a couple of holes at the edge of the end platform. Make some eye-pins from fine annealed brass wire to hold the frame in place. I made mine a little too heavy so they will have to be replaced.

Drill the holes for the upper support rods at the cab's roofline and bend the handrails to fit into the holes on the pilot.

Copyright Chesapeake and Ohio Historical Society, Inc. Feb 2001
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