The "new" Singapore

The "new" Singapore

Fifty years ago, the port of Singapore often was described with adjectives such as steamy, seductive, sleazy and sinful - the kind of place that inspired spy and adventure movies.

Under British rule for nearly 100 years, the city had become one of the most important trading ports in the world (it still ranks fourth).

Price of modernization

After the brutal Japanese occupation of the city/state from 1942 to 1944, Singapore, once again under British civilian rule, moved ahead in fits and starts toward independence.

In 1959, a Cambridge-educated Singaporean of Chinese ancestry named Lee Kwan Yew led his People's Action Party to an election victory. Under his 30 years of continuing leadership, Singapore came to earn the new description of "Clean, Green and Serene."

To those three words, most observers would add beautiful, modern, organized, efficient and a bit sterile - in the process of cleaning up and modernizing the city, the planners destroyed many of the most interesting and colorful areas.

As some government visionaries came to this realization (with much prodding from the Singapore Tourist Promotion Board), the tide of relentless modernization took a different tack.

The colorful ethnic areas of "Little India," "Arab Street" and "Chinatown" were (for the most part) put off limits to the wrecker's ball. Waterfront areas, with their Chinese Shop Houses, were restored, revitalized and, in some cases, reconstructed.

This trend has been widely applauded by those of us who visit Singapore often. Suddenly, everything old is new again.

City visits

Many new attractions have been added (such as the development of Sentosa Island) and many old ones improved (exotic Tiger Balm Gardens comes to mind).

The Singapore Zoological Gardens ranks as one of the most beautiful zoos in the world. It's an "open concept" zoo where animals are viewed in natural surroundings rather than behind bars.

A fascinating redhead named Ah Meng will host you for breakfast at the zoo. She just happens to be an orangutan. If she's not available, one of her children will be sure to be there and they all love to pose for pictures with you.

There are several wonderful shows featuring orangutans, chimps, gibbons, snakes, elephants, sea lions, sea otters and more.

Another fine attraction is the Jurong Bird Park with more than 3,000 birds of 300 different species. It has the world's largest walk-in aviary, where the wildly colorful birds fly about freely.

The "standard" city tour is not terribly interesting, frankly, but Singapore Sightseeing, the largest and most reliable tour company, has devised several interesting alternatives within the city.

Try, for example, the one that takes in the unusual ethnic areas featuring the sights, sounds (and smells) of China, Malaysia, India, Sri Lanka, Indonesia and more.

What to shop for and what not

to shop for

Singapore is considerably underrated as a shopping mecca. Don't think of cameras or electronics, however, since it's really the exotic goods there that are the prize.

The city is a major crossroads of the Orient and its population reflects this. You'll find goods from China, India, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Malaysia, Thailand and even the Philippines, in addition to locally made goods.

For example, there are Pakistani carpets, Malaysian pewter ware, Chinese porcelain, Indonesian batiks, Sri Lanka gemstones, Indian silver trinkets and exotic spices from all over the region.

Shop the ethnic areas around Serangoon Road ("Little India") or "Arab Street" (near the Plaza Hotel) and "Chinatown" in addition to modern Singapore's prime shopping area around Orchard Road and Scott's Road.

Countless stores and shopping malls feature everything from "fashion-fakes" (like copy-watches and "Gucci" bags) to the most expensive luxury goods. The copy-watches, incidentally, are among the best in the Orient, providing you purchase from a reliable source and not a street vendor (names on request).

Beware of shopping touts. They don't have your best interests in mind.

I recommend that you do not buy cameras or electronics in Singapore (or Hong Kong). The Singaporean merchants generally are less likely to rip you off than their Hong Kong counterparts, but New York prices are better than those in either place, in any event.

Where to stay?

A "moderately priced" hotel in Tokyo or London will be far more expensive than a hotel with that same designation in Singapore.

In Singapore in 1991, I consider a hotel to be priced as moderate if the rooms cost less than $100; moderately expensive, $100-$135; expensive, $135-$175, and very expensive, $175-$275.

The following are a few of my favorites: Hotel Miramar (moderate), Melia at Scotts (moderately expensive), Boulevard Hotel (moderately expensive), Omni Marco Polo (expensive), Marina Mandarin Hotel (expensive), Shangri la Hotel (very expensive) and Sheraton Towers (very expensive).

Two that I don't particularly like are the well-known Westin Stamford and Goodwood Park hotels.

I've inspected virtually all of the important hotels in Singapore in the past 12 months and these are just a few that are worthy of your consideration.

Choice of cuisines

Dining out is genuine adventure, because of the cosmopolitan nature of the city.

Try the Ristorante Bologna in the Marina Mandarin Hotel (northern Italian), Moti Mahal (northern Indian), Aziza's (Malaysian), Le Restaurant de France in the Regal Meridien Hotel (elegant, classical French), Hubertus Grill in the Century Park Sheraton (grilled meats and seafood) and Pine Court in the Mandarin Hotel (Peking cuisine).

Many of the top hotels have "set lunches" that are terrific bargains. You often get a choice of three main courses and then pick everything else from absolutely fabulous buffet spreads.

No cottage cheese, Jell-O and wilted carrot sticks - I'm talking things like fresh oysters, smoked salmon and baked Alaska.

Try the Restaurant Latour in the Shangri La Hotel as a prime example.

Writers who tell you Singapore is "boring" really haven't done their homework. You'll like it, particularly if you dig a bit below the surface. Even the cab drivers speak English (a rarity in the Orient), so you'll have no trouble shopping and exploring on your own in this fascinating city.

COPYRIGHT 1991 Martin Publications, Inc.
COPYRIGHT 2004 Gale Group