Elegance on a shoestring: famous television chef Graham Kerr puts healthy gourmet meals within reach - includes recipes and a glossary - Cover Story

Graham Kerr

In 1959 in New Zealand, my wife, Treena, got 50 cents an hour working in the local milk bar making, among other things, sandwiches with fillings of beetroot and French-fried potato. The fillings were never mixed together and certainly were never elegant!

We then took her weekly wage of about $10 (in 1959 New Zealand dollars) and squandered it all on our Saturday night dinner parties.

We never had more than one couple to a sit-down meal because we had only four dining chairs. A large crowd was a sit-down meal because they had to bring their own pillows. No couch potatoes in our place. We had no telly to watch or couch for that matter!

No matter what the seating arrangement, dinner was elegant, in a country-style manner. We found some red-checked gingham that Treena cut and sewed as a tablecloth to fit our genuinely tortured pine table. I found an old Chianti bottle, its base wrapped in straw, and with several used candles I decorated its sides in cascades of color. We handwrote the menu in the French-style restaurant script I'd been taught as a child by a head waiter. We didn't have fine china or crystal glasses--it was just us and them, and, of course, the food.

The big trick was how to make $10 go a very long way and seem like a celebration. The answer was, and still is, all wrapped up in presentation and updraft (that's the aromatic hot air that rises off the plates that gets everyone's juices running)!

This all happened in New Zealand in the late 50's. Treena and I now have known each other for 51 years and have been married for 40 years. (You may now applaud if it doesn't look foolish!)

I'm mainly meatless and Treena's been an ovo-lacto (egg whites only) vegetarian for more than a year. When we looked back over our lifetime of elegant dining experiences it is genuinely hard to believe that our focus was on flesh rather than plants.

There's nothing so functionally elegant--and economical--as fruit, vegetables, legumes, grains, nuts and seeds. Each has its individual flavors, and all come in a huge variety of shapes, colors and textures. Another bonus is the simple, swift and straightforward cooking techniques plant foods require.

As I write, I'm in the midst of final research for a new PBS series to be aired in the fall of 1996, "Swiftly Seasoned by Graham Kerr." In this series, much of what I'll do is show how easy, swift and satisfying it is to prepare mostly meatless menus. I'll compare relative nutrition between a flesh-based meal and an elegant meatless menu using well over 100 plant foods during the course of the series.

I'm having a wonderful time enjoying the sense of innovation and the tastes. Here are some examples from my latest book and present doings. Why not invest some time and have a couple 'round for an elegant but economical dinner-you could even hand write the menu!

Green Risotto

This is my favorite course- Even if you double the serving size it still has less than 1 0 grams of fat and only 500 calories per serving.

Risotto: 1 tsp. light olive oil with a dash of

toasted sesame oil (see

glossary) 1/2 cup chopped onion 1/2 cup chopped fennel root 3/4 cup uncooked arborio rice (see

glossary) 3 cups homemade or canned

strained vegetable stock 1/2 cup dealcoholized white wine (see

glossary) 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan

cheese

Pea mixture: 1 cup frozen green peas 1/4 cup strained vegetable stock 1 Tbs. chopped fresh basil 1 Tbs. chopped fresh parsley 7 large green butter lettuce leaves

(see glossary) cup dealcoholized white wine (see

glossary)

Garnish: Freshly grated Parmesan cheese Freshly ground black pepper Sliced fennel bulb Chopped fresh parsley

Risotto: In a large saucepan, heat oil; saute onion 3 minutes. Add fennel root and rice. Cook 2 minutes over medium heat, stirring until rice is well coated. Add 1 cup stock and wine; bring to vigorous boil, stirring until liquid is absorbed. Add I more cup stock; bring back to boil. Cook, stirring, until stock is absorbed; repeat with remaining 1 cup stock. (This process should take about 25 minutes. Stir in cheese; set aside.

Pea mixture: Pour peas into large saute pan over medium heat. Add stock, basil, parsley and lettuce; cover and cook 5 minutes. Turn mixture into food processor or blender. Add wine; puree until smooth. Pour puree into risotto; stir thoroughly.

To serve: Garnish each portion with a sprinkling of cheese, black pepper, fennel and parsley. Makes 4 servings.

PER SERVING: 293 CAL.; 9G PROT.; 3G FAT; 56G CARB.; 4MG CHOL.; 2 3 8MG SOD.; 3G FIBER. LACTO

Latin American Pasta Shells Marinara

This pasta-shell filling doesn't rely on the usual cheese. Instead, white beans and shiitake mushrooms add flavor instead of fat.

8 oz. jumbo pasta shells (1 6 shells)

Marinara sauce: 2 lbs. Roma tomatoes (see glossary) 1 tsp. light olive oil with a dash of

toasted sesame oil (see glossary) 1/3 cup diced onion 1/3 cup diced carrot 1/3 cup diced celery 2 cloves garlic, crushed, peeled and

chopped tsp. freshly ground sea salt or salt 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 3 sprigs fresh oregano

Filling: 2 cups cooked small white beans 1 tsp. light olive oil with a dash of

toasted sesame oil (see glossary) 1/2 cup chopped onion 4 oz. fresh shiitake mushrooms,

stems removed and chopped Reserved marinara vegetables 1/8 tsp. cayenne pepper 1/4 tsp. ground cumin 1 Tbs. freshly squeezed lemon juice

Vegetable: 1 lb. fresh spinach, washed and

stems removed 1/2 tsp. ground cardamom (see

glossary) 1/8 tsp. freshly ground sea salt or salt 2 Tbs. freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 tsp. arrowroot (see glossary)

mixed with 2 tsp. water slurry) 4 tsp. grated Parmesan cheese

Cook pasta shells according to package directions until barely al dente. Drain; rinse in cold water.

Marinara sauce: Bring a medium saucepan of water to boil. Make a small incision with a knife in stem end of each tomato; blanch 30 seconds in boiling water. Drain; transfer to bowl of ice water. Slip off skins. Place tomatoes in a large sealable plastic bag; press down gently until they squash somewhat. (Do not mash completely.

Heat oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat; saute onion, carrots, celery and garlic 5 minutes. Stir in tomatoes, salt, pepper and oregano. Cover; cook 15 minutes. Remove from heat and strain, pressing vegetables to extract juices (do not crush). Reserve pressed vegetables for filling. Yields 2 cups sauce.

Filling: Puree 1 1/2 caps beans in a food processor until creamy. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat; saute onion and mushrooms 5 minutes. Stir in pureed beans, reserved marinara vegetables and remaining 1/2 cup whole beans. Season with cayenne, cumin and lemon juice. Remove from heat; set aside.

Shells: Preheat oven to 3SO degrees. Pour marinara sauce into 9- by 9-inch baking pan. Fill each cooked shell with 1 heaping tablespoon filling. Arrange shells in pan; bake 3 0 minutes uncovered.

Vegetable: Just before shells are finished baking, toss spinach with cardamom and salt. Pour lemon juice into a highsided skillet over medium heat; cook spinach until limp, about 3 minutes.

To serve: Arrange a bed of spinach on each serving plate; top with 4 shells. Pour sauce from baking dish into a small saucepan. Stir in slurry; bring to boil. Stir until thickened and dear, about 30 seconds. Pour thickened sauce over pasta and spinach. Garnish with cheese. Makes 4 servings.

Helpful hint: When you make marinara sauce, make a double or triple recipe. Dip out 2 1/2 cups per recipe before straining. Freeze in quart-size resealable plastic bags. Use within 6 months.

PER SERVING: 506 CAL.; 24G PROT.; 6G FAT; 95G CARB.; 1 MG CHOL.; 375MG SOD.; 16G FIBER. LACTO

Pear Compote

4 8-oz. fresh Bartlett pears, peeled,

cored and halved (reserve peels

and cores) Cool water as needed Juice of 1/2 lemon 1 1/2 quarts water 2 whole cloves 1-inch piece cinnamon stick 1/4 cup brown sugar 1 recipe Hot Fudge Sauce (recipe

follows)

Submerge pears in enough cool water to cover; add lemon juice to prevent pears from browning.

Place reserved pear peels and cores, and water in a large saucepan. Add doves and cinnamon stick. Bring to boil; simmer 30 minutes. Strain; return liquid to saucepan. Add sugar; bring to boil and remove from heat. Add pears, return to heat and poach until tender, about 25 minutes. Remove pears from heat; drain and cool. Serve with Hot Fudge Sauce. Makes 4 servings.

PER SERVING: 134 CAL.; 1G PROT.; 1G FAT; 35G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 4MG SOD.; 4G FIBER. VEGAN

Hot Fudge Sauce

5 Tbs. warm water 3 Tbs. unsweetened Dutch-process

cocoa powder (see glossary) 4 Tbs. brown sugar 1 Tbs. arrowroot powder (see

glossary) mixed with 2 Tbs.

water (slurry)

Pour water, cocoa powder and sugar into a small saucepan; stir over low heat until dissolved. Remove from heat; stir in slurry. Whisk until thickened. Remove from heat; whisk until smooth. Makes 12 tablespoons.

PER TABLESPOON: 18 CAL.; 0. 1G PROT.; 0. 1G FAT; 4G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 2MG SOD.; 0 FIBER. VEGAN

Panjabi Kali Dal (Lentil Stew)

Treena and I have never had such delicious dal as. at the New Delhi Restaurant in San Francisco, and we've eaten Indian food on four continents. DAL is usually served as a side dish and sometimes as an appetizer. Not only is it full of flavor, it is extremely nutritious and quite satisfying as a main dish eaten with whole grain bread, such as chapatis or pita.

1 Tbs. light olive oil with a dash of

toasted sesame oil (see

glossary) 1 tsp. garam masala (recipe follows) 1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper 1 tsp. paprika 1/2 tsp. turmeric 1 tsp. coriander seed 1/2 cup cooked kidney beans, rinsed

and drained 1 cup cooked garbanzo beans,

rinsed and drained 1/2 cup dried red lentils, rinsed (see

glossary) 2 cups water Bouquet garni made of 4 bay leaves,

6 green cardamom pods (see

glossary) and 4 cloves 1 tsp. minced fresh ginger 2 cloves garlic, mashed, peeled and

minced 1 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro 1/4 tsp. salt (optional) 1/4 cup strained plain yogurt (see

helpful hint) 1 Tbs. freshly squeezed lemon juice

In a medium saucepan, heat half the oil. Add garam masala, cayenne, paprika, turmeric and coriander. Mix to a paste. Stir beans and lentils into curry paste; add water and bouquet garni. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer 20 minutes. Remove bouquet garni.

In a small saute pan, heat remaining oil over low heat. Fry ginger and garlic just long enough to release their aromatic oils, about 1 minute. Combine with bean mixture; stir in cilantro. Remove 1/3 of bean mixture; set aside. Scoop remaining bean mixture into food processor; puree. Mix reserved beans with puree and add salt (if desired), yogurt and lemon juice. Garnish with cilantro sprig. Serve with pita bread if desired. Makes 6 side-dish or appetizer servings.

Helpful hint: To strain yogurt, put 1 1/2 cups plain nonfat yogurt (made without gelatin) in a fine-meshed wire strainer over a bowl-or use a coffee filter, piece of muslin or a paper towel and place in a small colander or sieve over a bowl. Cover; let drain in refrigerator 5 hours or overnight. After 10 hours yogurt becomes firm and small lumps disappear, which makes it ideal for use in sauces. The liquid whey drains into bowl, leaving a thick, creamy yogurt "cheese."

PER SERVING: 115 CAL.; 6G PROT.; 4G FAT; 16G CARB.; 2MG CHOL.; 85MG SOD.; 4G FIBER. OVO-LACTO

Garam Masala

Garam masala is a blend of spices used to season many Indian dishes. Purchase it in specialty markets or make your own.

2-inch piece cinnamon stick, about 1/2 inch in diameter, broken into

smaller pieces 6 allspice berries 1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg 4 cloves

Whiz all ingredients together into a fine powder in an electric coffee grinder, or grind to a powder using a mortar and pestle. Makes about 1 tablespoon.

PER TEASPOON: 6 CAL.; 0 PROT.; 0 FAT; 1 G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 2MG SOD.; 0. 8G FIBER. VEGAN

Light-and-Creamy Fruit Curry

Many years ago--in 1963, to be precise--I included a recipe for a mild but fruity curry in my first book. The recipe was, not surprisingly, complete with clarified butter and dairy and coconut cream--loads of saturated fat. For my Minimax (minimizing risk, maximizing flavor) cookbook, I developed an entirely new and truly delicious curry that can be used as a basic method for other light- curries.

1/2 tsp. light olive oil with a dash of

toasted sesame oil (see glossary) 4 shallots, finely chopped 1 Tbs. grated ginger root 1 Tbs. Create-Your-Own Curry

Powder (recipe follows) 2 cups dealcoholized white wine or

white wine (see glossary) 1/4 lb. dried apricots 6 Tbs. raisins 2 pears, peeled, cored and cut into

eighths 1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored

and cut into eighths 1 papaya, peeled, seeded and cut

into 1-inch chunks 2 medium-sized firm bananas,

peeled and cut into 1-inch

chunks 1 Tbs. cornstarch mixed with 1 tsp.

dealcoholized white wine (see

glossary) (slurry) 1/4 tsp. essence of coconut (see

note) 1/2 tsp. salt 6 Tbs. strained yogurt 2 cups cooked long-grain rice, such

as basmati or texmati 8 dates, sliced into long matchsticks 4 Tbs. shelled green pistachio nuts

or sliced almonds

Heat oil in medium saucepan over medium-high heat; saute shallots until just brown, about S minutes. Stir in ginger root, curry powder, wine, apricots and raisins; simmer 5 minutes. Add pears, apple and papaya; simmer 18 minutes. Stir in bananas; remove from heat and strain, reserving fruit in covered bowl to retain heat. Return liquid to saucepan. (This will be about 1 cup).

Curry sauce: Stir slurry into liquid in saucepan. Return saucepan to heat; stir until thickened, about 1 minute. Remove from heat; stir in coconut essence and salt. Transfer to medium bowl; whisk in yogurt. Transfer to large casserole; stir in cooked fruit. Heat to desired serving temperature (do not boil or yogurt will separate).

To serve: Spoon curry onto plates with rice; sprinkle with dates and nuts. Makes 4 servings.

Note: Coconut fat is highly saturated, and as a result is bad news for those who need to watch their cholesterol and fat intake. As with any food, however, it is possible to make a commercial extract of the flavor and avoid fat. In this recipe, I've used just such an extract to give a hint of coconut. Depending on the process used, between 1/4 teaspoon and 1/2 teaspoon is enough. Use pure coconut extract. If an "extract" is created from chemical compounds, it must be labeled artificial. I prefer to use natural, pure extracts or essences from real food.

* As you can see, I've used cornstarch and yogurt to provide a creamy finish also associated with coconut.

Helpful hint: You can also chill the fruit in its finished sauce and serve as a cool and refreshing salad over greens.

PER SERVING: 536 CAL.; 9G PROT.; 7G FAT.; 115G CARB.; 3MG CHOL.; 11 7MG SOD.; 12G FIBER. LACTO

Create-Your-Own Curry Powder

You can use a good mild commercial powder or, if you are really ambitious, here is a special mix designed for light-flavored curries.

1 Tbs. ground turmeric 1 Tbs. cumin 2 Tbs. coriander seed 1 Tbs. powdered ginger 1 Tbs. white peppercorns 2 tsp. fenugreek 1 small dried red chili 2 tsp. cardamom seed (see glossary 2 tsp. powdered mace 1 tsp. mustard seed 8 cloves (1/2 tsp. ground) 1 tsp. poppy seed 1 bay leaf

Place all ingredients in small electric coffee grinder; whiz 4 minutes. Transfer powder t small metal hand sieve; shake to let powder fall through. Toss out gritty remains. Alternately, ingredients can be ground using a mortar and pestle.

Helpful hint: If you are using an electric coffee grinder, it is best to have one exclusively for spice grinding, as spices leave residual traces. Inexpensive electric coffee grinders start at about $19 and make excellent spice grinders. Makes about 1/2 clip.

PER TEASPOON: 8 CAL.; 0.1G PROT.; 0.3G FAT; 1G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 1 MG SOD.; 2G FIBER. VEGAN

Chapatis

This puffy bread is a classic accompaniment to Indian dishes of all sorts. At home, I prepare it on my solid ceramic-topped stove burner, but a skillet works just as well.

1 1/2 cups finely ground whole wheat

flour or whole wheat pastry flour 1/2 cup water or less

In large bowl, mix 1 Cup flour with a little water at a time until it clumps together into an easy-to-handle dough. Turn dough out onto a flat surface; knead minutes by hand or 1 1/2 minutes with dough hook on a mixer. Cover dough with a damp cloth; allow to rest at least 30 minutes and up to 3 hours.

Just before cooking, knead dough 12 times. Divide it into 8 balls; cover with a damp cloth. Preheat a large skillet over medium heat until hot. Heat another burner to medium heat.

Dip dough balls in flour until well coated. Scatter remaining 1/2 cup flour on a rolling surface to keep from sticking. Roll each ball out flat to form a 5-inch circle.

Cook chapatis 1 at a time in skillet. When the dough bubbles, flip over with tongs and finish cooking. Both sides of bread should have brown spots on them. Lay cooked chapati directly on hot burner--it should start to puff up immediately. Turn it over on other side for a few seconds. If the burner is too hot, the bread will burn; if it's not hot enough, the bread won't puff. Experiment with your particular stove. Makes 8 servings.

Variation: If salt is not a dietary concern for you, trying adding 1/2 teaspoon to the dough during mixing.

PER SERVING: 76 CAL.; 3G PROT.; 0.4G FAT; 16G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 1 MG SOD.; 3G FIBER. VEGAN

Creme Caramel

Creme caramel is a favorite in many restaurants. It is a super-rich baked egg custard made with added heavy cream. It looks small and innocent, but packs a devastating amount of "shadow energy" (many calories with nutrients). Our substitutions, such as rosemary, provide flavors that are needed when fat is reduced, which it is, significantly.

16-oz. can evaporated skim milk 1 1/2 cups 2 percent milk Zest of 1 orange, in strips 2 4-inch sprigs of fresh rosemary 1/4 cup sugar 1 tsp. vanilla 1 cup liquid egg substitute

Garnish: 6 tsp. maple syrup 6 sprigs fresh rosemary

Preheat oven to 3 2 5 degrees.

In large saucepan, heat evaporated milk and 2 percent milk, orange zest and rosemary until just about to boil. Place sugar and vanilla in large bowl; strain hot milk into it. Whisk in egg substitute.

Set 6 small custard cups into 9- by 13-inch baking pan. Pour custard into cups; place baking pan in oven. Pour hot water into baking pan, filling until cups are 3/4 submerged. Bake 1 hour or until tester inserted into center comes out clean. Take cups out of water; cool about I hour.

To serve: Loosen custard from dish with knife. Invert dish over an individual serving plate; shake out custard. Spoon 1 teaspoon maple syrup over top; garnish with rosemary on side. Serve at room temperature or chilled. Makes 6 servings.

PER SERVING: 166 CAL.; 12G PROT.; 1 G FAT; 26G CARB.; 8MG CHOL.; 189MG SOD.; 0G FIBER. OVO-LACTO

GLOSSARY

Arborio rice: A short-grain rice from Italy used to make the classic Italian dish of risotto. Arborio's high starch content gives the dish its characteristic creamy texture.

Arrowroot powder: Starch flower used for thickening. Usually less processed than cornstarch, but can be substituted for it measure for measure. Arrowroot provides a glossier finish; cornstarch is cloudier.

Butter lettuce: Small, loosely formed lettuce with soft, buttery-textured leaves that have a sweet and succulent flavor.

Cardamom: An aromatic spice that comes in a pod containing small back seeds or ground. The pods can be easily crushed with a mortar and pestle.

Dealcoholized wine: Produced from varietal grapes, but the alcohol is removed prior to bottling.

Dutch-process cocoa powder: Cocoa powder that has been treated with an alkali, which helps neutralize cocoa's natural acidity; offers superior flavor.

Red lentils: Small, coral-colored lentils. Excellent in soups for their creamy quality after cooking. Available in Middle Eastern and specialty markets.

Roma tomatoes Small, pear-shaped tomatoes often used for making sause or paste because they are fleshy and have few seeds. Also called Italian or plum tomatoes.

Sesame oil: Oil expressed from sesame seeds. Lighter varieties are good for salad dressing and sauteing; dark sesame oil, which burns easily, is drizzled on as a flavor accent after cooking.

Graham Kerr was born in London to hotelier parents and grew up around some of Europe's finest chefs. After moving to New Zealand to serve as chief catering advisor to the Royal New Zealand Air Force, he made his television debut after being ordered to do so by his senior officer. After retiring from the service, Kerr and his wife, Treena, a British actress, produced a successful national cooking show in Australia. They tben moved to Canada where they caught the world's attention with the Emmy-winning " Galloping Gourmet."

The show ended in 1971 when the Kerrs were seriously injured after a vegetable truck crashed into their on-site production vehicle near San Francisco. During rehabilitation, the couple re-evaluated their stressful lifestyle and the food they were eating. After Treena suffered a heart attack in 1986 and they made further dietary modifications, they decided to share what they had learned about nutrition and healthful living. "Simply Marvellous," filmed in the United Kingdom, New Zealand and the United States, aired in 1988. It was followed by a series produced for the American Heart Association, " Take Kerr," and a daily halfhour U.S. broadcast called "The Graham Keff Show."

The current show, "Graham Kerr's Kitchen," has aired weekly in the United States since 1992 on public broadcasting stations. Kerr has sold more than 4 million cookbooks, and GRAHAM KERR'S Minimax Cookbook (Doubleday, 1992) won the Julia Child Cookbook Award for the best health and diet cookbook in 1993. His latest book is GRAHAM KERR'S BEST (G.P. Putnam's Sons, 1996). The Kerrs live on Camano Island, Wash. AH recipes are reprinted with permission from GRAHAM KERR'S BEST (G.P. Putnam's Sons, 1996).

COPYRIGHT 1996 Vegetarian Times, Inc. All rights reserved.
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