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  • 标题:No ties, no rips and no creases
  • 作者:PETER HOWARTH
  • 期刊名称:London Evening Standard
  • 印刷版ISSN:2041-4404
  • 出版年度:2004
  • 卷号:Jan 30, 2004
  • 出版社:Associated Newspaper Ltd.

No ties, no rips and no creases

PETER HOWARTH

IF you are a man of a certain age, worry not.

There is nothing wrong with wearing denim, you just have to do it in a dignified manner. Here are the rules

Go for a pair with a loose fit. There is a common misconception among men that your jeans size doesn't change. Ever. This leads to the phenomenon of tight jeans, which will make you look like an ageing musician, or a fashion designer.

But don't go too baggy. Skateboarders and Justin Timberlake can show off their toned six packs and builder's bums. You cannot. You have a party seven and a DIY bum.

Wear the right shoes. Timberlands and work-style boots are a good idea, or solid, English-style shoes or ankle boots. Oliver Sweeney's are good, as are Church's. Trainers are great if you're in Busted, but you're not.

No hats. Baseball caps, beanies, forget it.

Invest in a chunky belt. Thin belts are for waify models born after the Seventies.

Don't wear denim jackets. Just don't.

Think knitwear. Chunky Dolce Gabbana fisherman style, or fine John Smedley crew- and roll-necks.

If it's a leather jacket you want, try a half-coat. Belstaff makes replicas of its belted Fifties jackets, worn by T E Lawrence and Che Guevara.

Use tailoring wisely. The recent Milan catwalks were full of jeans teamed with tweed and herringbone jackets. The key was to combine rough-looking fabrics with worn denim.

No ties. No rips.

Paul Smith wears opencollared shirts with jeans and a suit jacket, often in grey flannel. Gucci's Tom Ford likes jeans with white open- collared shirts and black tailored jackets. Who are we to argue?

No blazers. You are not James Hewitt.

If jackets are not your thing, go for a great coat instead - a Gieves military style or a Jil Sander mac.

No ironing. No creases.

Diesel jeans are a good, mid-tone blue, and are flatteringly roomy. You won't look like you're trying too hard.

Finally, ask yourself if you really are a denim kind of guy. Some men will always look better in tailored trousers; others will always look like they hang out with Dennis Hopper. That's life.

And remember, never wear denim to the office unless you own the company.

By Peter Howarth, former editor of Arena and Esquire

(c)2004. Associated Newspapers Ltd.. Provided by ProQuest Information and Learning Company. All rights Reserved.

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