Holidays: Take a break down beside the lake ...

THE sun streaming through a gap in the curtains woke me up. It was 7am.

I tiptoed to the next bedroom and peeped in. My daughters, aged six and seven, were still buried under their bed sheets.

I stepped outside the caravan. Half a dozen fat rabbits nibbling the dandelions hardly bothered to move as I strolled past them across a sandy beach to the water's edge.

The water was crisp, cold, cobalt blue and smooth as glass. But this was not the ocean...the nearest sea coast was nearly 200 miles away.

I was staying beside the stunning Lac du Chalain in the area known as France's Lake District, the Jura mountains.

I waded in. A mother duck with her family of chicks scolded me with a "Quack!" and detoured around me. I looked down at my feet as a gang of cheeky little orange and blue sunfish began nibbling the hairs on my legs.

After my swim I walked back to the caravan to find my wife had already been to the camp site store. She had laid our outdoor breakfast table with oven-crisp rolls, pain au chocolat, cheese, salami and fresh fruit.

The kids were still in dreamland. What a reversal of the normal situation at home.

There they are up with the lark, even at weekends , while I retreat deeper under the duvet.

But I guess that's what a caravan holiday does for you.

It was hardly surprising that my daughters were tired. They'd spent the entire week swimming, canoeing, pony riding, climbing waterfalls, exploring caves, cycling, discoing and playing tennis.

Together with their dozen or so instant new friends, they'd been on the go for 14 hours out of every 24.

I can honestly say I'd never felt so relaxed, so free and easy on any holiday before. Most of my day was spent sitting in the shade, reading, drinking wine, or fishing.

We had booked our stay through one of the UK's most experienced camping and mobile home companies, Haven Europe.

Never having been on a caravan holiday before, we weren't sure what to expect.

The camp is about 400 miles drive from Calais. We did the journey comfortably in less than a day. Our caravan, which was clean and spacious, nestled among a cluster of others in a quiet spot among the trees on a hillside overlooking the lake.

We had two bedrooms, our own bathroom, a kitchen and large living room/diner.

There are bigger ones for larger groups. We didn't spend much time inside. The weather was fine, warm and sunny during the day, and because the Jura stands 1500 feet above sea level it was pleasantly cool at night.

The camp was a paradise for children. There's an organised kids' club during the morning, plus an adventure playground and a pool complex with trained lifeguards to keep an eye on things.

Our two took their bikes and because there is no through traffic on the camp they were able to cycle wherever they wanted.

The lake has a sandy beach - as good as any seaside, with pedaloes, canoes and sailing dinghies for hire.

It had another big advantage for us. My youngest daughter suffers from eczema. Like thousands of children, a seaside holiday can be an ordeal because salt water hurts her skin.

But at Lac du Chalain we had no such problem. She paddled and swam for hours each day without tears.

At night the kids' club becomes a disco, or a nightclub with hilarious comedy revues put on by members of the camp's own staff.

The surrounding area is dotted with pretty villages, more lakes, woods and lush green countryside. For the more energetic there are wooded walks beside the spectacular Cascades du Herisson, a system of water falls that tumble through the nearby mountains.

For fans of excellent French food there are lots of country kitchen- type restaurants and cafes within a few minutes' drive. The camp itself has its own excellent restaurant - so good that local people came from miles around to eat there. They also have a rotisserie so you can buy "take away" meals as well.

But most nights we simply used the barbecue provided in our own garden area - toasting the setting sun with bottles of local wine.

VERDICT: Great fun for the kids, and for mum and dad too.

FACT FILE

HAVEN Europe (0870 242 7777) 12 nights at La Pergola Park on Lac de Chalain in the Jura Mountains for two adults and up to four under- 18s, staying in a Europa mobile home, pounds 679 total (June), pounds 1238 (Aug). Price includes return Sunday-Thursday P&O Stena Line Dover-Calais ferry crossing or Eurotunnel Folkestone-Calais.

Further info: French Tourist Office, 178 Piccadilly, London W1 (0891 244 123 - premium rates).

Cup of coffee pounds 1

3-course set meal pounds 7

Bottle of house wine pounds 4

Bottle of mineral water pounds 1

Bottle of beer pounds 1.10

Petrol same as UK

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