Diplomatic dining: Washington, DC, is home to a large diplomatic corps��and a few great restaurants - Style of Life

Washington, DC, is known for many things--cherry blossoms, the Mall, the Watergate hotel and three-olive martinis, to name a few. Until recently, however, the city was not considered a Mecca for fine dining. But change is underway Sparked by an influx of talented young chefs and restaurant impresarios, Washington is enjoying a culinary renaissance.

While Washington still boasts its fair share of white-linen tourist traps and expense-account cholesterol palaces, it is also home to a growing number of top-notch restaurants offering both traditional and innovative fare.

The chiefs of five non-governmental organizations helped Latin CEO locate the pearls in Washington's sea of restaurants - places they would take a visiting friend or dignitary.

Restaurant: L'Auberge Chez Francois

Executive: Ambassador Thomas McNamara

President and CEO of the Council of the Americas

LOCATED IN GREAT FALLS, VIRGINIA, ABOUT A half-hour drive from downtown DC, L'Auberge Chez Francois serves up hearty Alsatian food that nourishes the body in an atmosphere that soothes the soul.

The setting is a rustic French inn located down a winding country road. The menu has earned L'Auberge Chez Francois plaudits from food critics and a loyal following among Washington's gastronomical elite. The fare includes an array of regional specialties such as choucroute (Alsatian sauerkraut) with sausages, smoked pork, foie gras, and veal sweetbreads sauteed with truffle sauce and wild mushrooms in puff pastry.

Ambassador Thomas McNamara, president of the Council of the Americas, a business association for US companies with investments in Latin America, is one of the restaurant's devotees. McNamara says dinner at L'Auberge Chez Francois is the perfect way to unwind after a hectic week of Beltway business.

"For a memorable dinner in a magnificent setting, nothing in town tops L'Auberge Chez Francois," says McNamara, who visits the restaurant on business and with his wife for wedding anniversaries and other special occasions. "They've got the best foie gras west of Cherbourg, and the rest of the menu is delectable as well." McNamara says he is always impressed with the personal attention that owner Francois Haeringer and his sons lavish on their guests.

Haeringer, who has been in the restaurant business for more than 50 years, says the secret to L'Auberge Chez Francois' success is simple: great food, attentive service and reasonable prices. Indeed, under the prix fixe menu, diners pay the price of an entree but also receive an appetizer, salad, sorbet, dessert and coffee.

"I try to provide my guests with the same things I look for when dining out," he says in a thick Alsatian accent. "If you make it a memorable meal, they will come back."

And come back they do. In fact, the restaurant is generally booked four weeks in advance, so call ahead for reservations.

L'Auberge Chez Francois. 332 Springvale Road, Great Falls, Virginia. (Two miles north of Route 193). 1-703-759-3800.

Restaurant: The Prime Rib

Executive: Sam Maury, President of the Business Roundtable

THE NOISE AND BUSTLE OF DOWNTOWN Washington come to a halt at the double doors of The Prime Rib, located on K Street in the heart of the city's business district. The restaurant, which has been described as the dean of Washington's steakhouses, has the look and feel of a 1940s Manhattan supper club, complete with gilt-trimmed black lacquer walls, leopard-print carpet, black leather arm chairs, banquettes and a baby grand.

Sam Maury, president of The Business Roundtable, an association of chief executive officers of leading US companies that promotes business-friendly public policies, is one of the restaurant's loyal patrons. He discovered The Prime Rib with his wife some 25 years ago. At the time, the two were considering relocating from their native Pittsburgh, and an extraordinary dinner at the restaurant helped push the decision.

Maury says he's been returning regularly to The Prime Rib with family, friends and business associates ever since, confident that the meal will always be "an unqualified hit."

What to order? Of course, it's the prime rib. Selected from grain-fed steers, aged four to five weeks, then roasted to give it a special flavor, the house specialty is "simply not to be missed," says Maury. Other popular entrees include dry-aged strip steaks, center-cut veal chops and award-winning crab cakes. The Prime Rib is also noted for its side dishes, including crispy potato skins, classic mashed potatoes and silky creamed spinach.

The key to The Prime Rib's enduring success, says general manager William Carter, is consistency "Customers know they are going to get a good meal here, and we don't let them leave until their stomachs are full and their faces are smiling," he says. The Prime Rib also prides itself on its service, which Carter describes as attentive and friendly but not obtrusive. As Maury notes, "In Washington, DC, most of us expect uncompromising customer service. The Prime Rib never disappoints."

The Prime Rib. 2020 K Street, NW 1-202-466-8811.

Restaurant: Cafe Atlantico

Executive: Peter Hakim

President of the Inter-American Dialogue

WHEN PETER HAKIM, PRESIDENT OF THE Inter-American Dialogue policy think tank, entertains dignitaries and senior government officials from Latin America, he usually heads to Cafe Atlantico, a chic eatery in downtown's revitalized arts district that specializes in Nuevo Latino. Why? "Exquisite food, a relaxed and informal atmosphere and impeccable service," he says.

Housed in a loft-like space and adorned with wall-sized paintings by noted Latin American and Caribbean artists, the tri-level restaurant serves a dazzling array of dishes that meld traditional Latin and Caribbean ingredients in surprising and eclectic ways.

Hakim raves about the extraordinary selection of appetizers, which includes jicama, tuna ceviche, and seared Ecuadorian scallops with coconut black rice and squid. He recommends "almost anything from the sea."

Cafe Atlantico is also renowned for its baby fowl with Mexican mole, nueva feijoada, and tableside guacamole. The restaurant boasts an extensive wine list with more than 100 Chilean, Argentine and Uruguayan vintages. Meanwhile, the bar serves up killer caipirinhas, potent pisco sours and mean mojitos.

Hakim recently hosted small parties at Cafe Atlantico in honor of the newly appointed US ambassador to Bolivia and senior advisers to Mexican President-elect Vicente Fox. He says he couldn't have picked a better spot: "The food was superlative, and the service was cheerful and helpful."

Andres Rivas, the restaurant's general manager, says Cafe Atlantico tries to incorporate the best elements of each country and culture in Latin America and the Caribbean - from the murals on the walls to the music on the sound system.

Cafe Atlantico. 465 Eighth Street, NW 1-202-393-0812.

Restaurant: La Chaumiere

Executive: Ambassador James Jones

Chairman of the US-Mexico Business Committee

ONE OF THE NICE THINGS ABOUT LA CHAUMIERE is its location in historic Georgetown, nestled among rows of 18th and 19th century Victorian and Federal townhouses.

As you step inside the restaurant you are immediately transported from genteel Georgetown to rural France. The restaurant's thatched roof and stucco walls, adorned with antique iron farm implements, give it the air of a country cottage in Provence. During winter, a blazing fire in the huge, freestanding stone fireplace warms guests' toes as it casts a magnificent glow about the room.

James Jones, a former US ambassador to Mexico and head of the US-Mexico Business Committee, patronizes La Chaumiere for both the cuisine and the ambiance. "Even the French say the food is authentically good, and the atmosphere is unbeatable," he says.

La Chaumiere is famous for its couscous and cassoulet, which are served on Wednesdays and Thursdays, respectively Chef Patrick Orange has also developed a loyal following for his boudin blanc, seafood crepes and quenelles de brochet (pike dumplings in lobster sauce).

In addition to offering palate-pleasing bistro fare, La Chaumiere has earned a reputation for providing excellent service. Manager Geraldine Pain-Hussein says that many of the staff have been with La Chaumiere since it opened its doors in 1976, and are on a first-name basis with the restaurant's regular clientele. Newcomers are warmly received and given detailed menu descriptions and wine list recommendations.

Like most French restaurants, La Chaumiere serves modest portions. However, Jones says that this is not such a bad thing: "You don't leave feeling bloated, as you do at many other restaurants--just satiated and content."

La Chaumiere. 2813 M Street, NW 1-202-338-1784.

Restaurant: Jaleo

Executive: Linda Chavez

President of the Center for Equal Opportunity

IF YOU'RE IN THE MOOD FOR SPANISH CUISINE, there's no better place to find it in Washington, DC, than at Jaleo. Named after the famous painting of a flamenco dancer by John Singer Sargent, Jaleo is a chic Penn Quarter tapas restaurant that draws enthusiastic crowds of business executives, bureaucrats, artists and celebrities.

Linda Chavez, president of the Center for Equal Opportunity, a non-profit organization that promotes equal opportunity and racial harmony, is one of Jaleo's biggest fans. Chavez visits Jaleo on evenings when she has tickets to the Shakespeare Theater, conveniently located next door. She says the restaurant, which features flamenco dancers on Wednesday evenings, reminds her of Seville.

While the atmosphere is lively and festive, the food is the real draw Chavez says she usually orders the spinach sauteed with apples, pine nuts and raisins, which is "divine." Other popular tapas include chicken and ham croquetas, grilled chorizo atop garlic mashed potatoes, and Serrano ham and tomatoes on focaccia. There are about 50 hot and cold tapas to choose from.

If tapas are not to your taste, Jaleo serves a small selection of entrees, including a shrimp and chicken paella for two to four people that is reputedly pure Castilian heaven. Diners typically chase their tapas with a glass of sherry, Rioja, or Jaleo's signature sangria, made from brandy vodka, lime juice, orange juice, Sprite and sugar.

Joanna Brady, a manager at Jaleo, attributes the restaurant's popularity to the tapas concept, which she says is a modern alternative to traditional dining. "At most restaurants, diners are limited to a single entree and appetizer. Our guests try different dishes and share them with their friends."

Jaleo. 480 Seventh Street, NW (202) 628-7949

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