Culinary blood runs deep in Ireland's Maes family - includes related information on Rosleague Manor, County Galway

Building a reputation through generations of hard work and dedication, one family is helping to give Ireland a culinary push toward world-class levels.

As a family of restaurateurs, the Maes of County Kerry have had a pronounced influence on the dining scene there.

For many years Ireen Maes and his wife, Gaby, have operated the West End House, which is located in a carefully restored 1894 building on the fringes of Killarney.

Nearby in the heart of town, the couple's son, Greet, and daughter-in-law, Marie, operate Gaby's, a popular seafood restaurant.

Gaby's was founded several years ago by Ireen and Gaby, a noted chef, but recently was sold to the next generation of operators in the Maes clan. And the Maeses' son isn't the only family member bitten by the restaurant bug. Daughter Geert Maes O'Brien operates the Lime Tree in Kenmare, which is developing its own reputation for excellence.

And while all family members may not be restaurateurs, it seems the ones who are not help out just the same. A case in point is daughter Els and son-in-law Paul O'Boyle, who operate a modern fishing trawler out of Dingle. A good portion of their fresh catch goes to the local restaurants and hotels in and around County Kerry.

Patriarch Ireen takes the fish scene one step farther by marketing a fish-and-lobster tank to hotels and restaurants throughout Ireland. He also sells smoked salmon and will take special orders for a delicious salmon pate.

Those and other business ventures, along with a high degree of energy, make him a natural for the Irish Restaurant Association, in which he plays an active role.

A restaurateur with imagination and a generous spirit, Ireen opened Gaby's several years ago. He is a recognized wine connoisseur and has been a pioneer in wine merchandising on the restaurant scene in Ireland.

The wine selection at the West End House features a number of excellent vintages from Europe, the United States, Spain, Italy and South America. Most entries on the list, which shows origin, are the same price, allowing easy selection as well as an opportunity for tasting.

But the current status didn't come easy. After Ireen and Gaby purchased the West End House, they painstakingly restored the property, metamorphosing it into a restaurant and guest house.

And food is a big portion of the strategy. Steaks, chops and fresh seafood and the house specialty -- barbecued ribs -- are reasonably priced. The clientele comprises both visitors and locals, who represent more than 60 percent of the restaurant's customers.

Apparently the locals know quality when they taste it. Each entree includes a side dish of fresh vegetables, including baked potatoes, fresh brocoli, red cabbage, carrots and turnips. The side dishes could make a meal in themselves.

Both Gaby's and the West End House boast logos and graphic designs that are works of art. In fact, many postcards featuring those elements have been sent around the world, so it's not just the food that is enhancing the reputation of the two Irish restaurants.

Since Gaby's was sold to son Greet and his wife, the couple has maintained the restaurant's tradition and even enhanced it through their own efforts.

The Bridgestone Restaurant Guide currently lists Gaby's as one of the top 100 restaurants in Ireland. To bolster the image of Irish restaurants abroad, Greet will represent his country as a member of the Irish Culinary Team at the Frankfurt Olympics in October.

And he has plenty of ammunition for the event, such as Gaby's lobster, a specialty of the house. His Dingle prawn salad has a base of a Chardonnay butter sauce. The plate is ringed with Dingle prawns and strawberry slices, and the center contains a bountiful variety of fresh Irish greens.

Gaby's, which recently moved a couple of doors down to a new location, features an open wine cellar, a fireplace and a garden in the back. Marie, who is the mother of two children, aged 9 and 6, supervises the front-of-the-house, paying special attention to each guest.

And while Mom runs the front, Dad rules in back. Greet works the kitchen with the magic of his own personality and has developed a reputation for excellence. Through the dedication of families like the Maes and a commitment to fine dining on the part of many of the hotels and castles, dining in Ireland has reached world-class levels in many operations. The availability of fresh seafood and produce as well as dairy products, beef and lamb is a key factor in the Irish chef's culinary achievement. The high quality of Irish cheese has greatly enhanced the menu.

Where else in the world can you go today and receive such generous portions of farm-fresh whipped cream on pastries, in soups and in your coffee?

A trip to Ireland today can offer the best in dining as well as beautiful landscapes, people and pubs.

And that's no blarney.

COPYRIGHT 1992 Reproduced with permission of the copyright holder. Further reproduction or distribution is prohibited without permission.
COPYRIGHT 2004 Gale Group