Costa Rica is rich in great beaches, surf

TAMARINDO, Costa Rica -- A $2-a-night shack on a remote beach with the guys sounds like a dream for many thrill-seeking surfers, but throw in a snorkeling girlfriend who likes hot water and air conditioning, and that dream becomes more like a wipeout.

It's a dilemma that made planning the perfect vacation a nightmare. And after months of researching every spot from South Africa to Barbados, Costa Rica sounded like the ultimate compromise.

The travel guides promised plenty of reef breaks and consistent swells, as well as calm, shell-covered beaches. Not to mention lush rain forests, exotic wildlife and erupting volcanos.

But after stepping off the single-engine, 12-person plane on that narrow gravel strip in Tamarindo, it soon became clear why Costa Rica translates to the "rich coast."

The surf at nearby Playa Negra on the Northwest Pacific shore was good enough for two to four surf sessions a day -- enough to satisfy even a Hawaii native -- while the wide, gentle beaches at Tamarindo were perfect for swimming, Boogie boarding or just lounging in the sun with a book.

And for just a $1 boat ride across a narrow, crocodile-filled estuary, Playa Grande became a short trip that offered inconsistent, but fun, surf and an amazing array of colorful seashells -- including mounds of unbroken sand dollars.

All of this within a 30-minute drive. Compromise, indeed.

In between swells, a three-day trip inland was the ideal rest for aching paddling muscles and a great opportunity for some quality time together exploring Costa Rica's other treasures.

Volcano Arenal is perhaps the country's most awe-inspiring sight. It has a reputation of letting visitors down because its smoking, mile-high peak is often shrouded by clouds. But on a clear night, it's incredible.

The gurgling crimson lava explodes like fireworks before oozing down the slopes in chunky blobs. It thunders and crackles with each release so that even whispering the occasional "wow" distracts from the experience. It's a phenomenon even more amazing to watch from the natural hot springs just below at Tabacon spa, which has 10 pools ranging from about 73 to 102 degrees. The resort is also loaded with waterfalls, tropical flowers and an amazing canvas of stars.

Just a half-day's drive away lies the cloud forest in Monteverde, which was another trek that scored with both the surfer and the sun- bather.

Twelve cable bridges stretch high above the lush canopy where green leaves and stringy vines race to overtake every piece of bare bark below. Warm, dry clothes are a must here, and the rain can prove disappointing to bird-watchers and wildlife enthusiasts hoping to spot animals pictured in all the glossy tourist brochures. Still, it's an experience not to be missed.

Monteverde also has a butterfly garden with an insect room full of six-legged creepy crawlies. One tarantula was as big as a fist, while a case full of cockroaches weighed in at twice that size.

But the butterflies were the true stars as they glided gracefully from flower to flower, showing off their dazzling wing patterns. The experience was enhanced by exotic birds calling from the lush surrounding rain forest.

But it wasn't long until the waves started calling, and back at Playa Negra barrels were forming. The lineup was crowded with too many wannabe wave catchers and some who needed schooling in the proper etiquette, but the locals were mellow and generous.

As for the true locals, called Ticos, their hospitality and carefree spirit was unmatched. In fact, hitchhiking is so common and safe there, few even bother waiting for buses -- they simply flag down tourists. The favor is often reciprocated when locals stop for foreigners hoofing to the beach often lugging surf boards.

However, in some places, walking might actually be preferred to bouncing over miles of rutted, flooded dirt paths. Four-wheel-drive is a must, and even then, white-knuckle driving is common while negotiating everything from rock slides to rivers.

Horseback riding is another option, but it's not advised unless it's obvious the horses are well cared for. Some animals on the beach in Tamarindo looked so thin and overworked, it was difficult to watch them carry oblivious riders up and down the coast every afternoon. Out near Playa Negra, though, several private owners host daily rides with healthy horses that are well-fed and rested before each trip.

But none of this is cheap. Costa Rica is a far cry from the rock- bottom prices found in Bali and Mexico. But in a democratic country known for its history of peacefulness -- there's not even an army here -- safety isn't a major concern for visitors. One other huge plus: no beggars or street vendors hassling tourists to buy trinkets.

Still, there are some deals to be had, but they go fast and cannot be counted on, especially in the high (dry) season, which runs from December to April. The cheapest hotel up to the sun-bather's standards was near the airport just outside of Tamarindo. The Costa Real ran $25 a night. It had air conditioning, cable TV, a nice pool, plus a sweet tabby cat affectionately dubbed "Tica" by her temporary caretakers. Hot water was not part of the deal, though.

Another true jewel was the Hotel Iguanazul, which consisted of several simple bungalows perched atop the sea cliffs at Playa Junquillal, about a half hour from Tamarindo. For $50 a night, it had a nice pool, bar and restaurant, along with two hammocks offering killer views -- perfect for snoozing or watching the sun rise and fade -- and within a short walk of good surf. Inexpensive massages also could be arranged here.

Given that Costa Rican restaurants aren't popular fixtures back home, the cuisine definitely isn't anything to brag about. Beans and meat. It's hearty but bland. The fish, however, is fresh and delicious. One restaurant called The Reef on the beach at Playa Negra -- it looks more like a cement-floored car port -- serves up fresh mahi-mahi and snapper baked in ginger or garlic with giant scoops of mashed potatoes. It was so cheap and delicious, one surfer from Modesto, Calif., who was on his honeymoon, shook the chef's hand and proclaimed it the best "candy" he had ever eaten.

Costa Rica's diverse wildlife also was a true treat. A family of howler monkeys were a delight to watch every evening at sunset near the Mono Congo Lodge. Their guttural calls made them impossible to miss as they danced from tree to tree.

Iguanas, some as big as dogs, were also found everywhere, along with their droppings. In other words, going barefoot at night isn't advised.

Some tourists were lucky enough to spot three-toed sloths, caimans and hundreds of Pacific Ridley sea turtles beaching themselves to lay their eggs, which happens from August to October at Ostional National Wildlife Refuge, just south of Tamarindo. At Playa Grande, leatherback turtles usually perform the same mass nesting from October to April.

But despite all of the magic it has to offer, Costa Rica's true beauty really is self-explanatory. It's a country abounding with rich waves and rich beaches -- a perfect destination with or without surfboards.

Editor's note: The prices quoted in this story were offered during Costa Rica's rainy season, which runs from about May to November. Count on paying more for everything during the dry season.

On the Net: www.visitcostarica.com; Hotel Iguanazul; Tamarindo Beach

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