High-altitude baking isn't straightforward

One of the most frequent calls I receive is from frustrated bakers who are amazed at the effect our high altitude has on baked products.

What does high altitude mean to the baker? Using sea level recipes at altitudes above 3,000 feet may result in sunken cakes and quick breads and flat cookies. Most of these recipes can be made successfully at high altitudes with a few recipe adjustments.

Here are the common high-altitude adjustments and the reasons they need to be made. Start with the smallest adjustment given - this may be all that is needed.

Only repeated experiments with a recipe can give the most successful proportions to use.

INCREASE LIQUID. At high altitudes, liquids boil at a lower temperature than at sea level, where liquids boil at 212 degrees. Moisture also evaporates more quickly at high elevations. At higher than 3,000 feet, cooks must add liquid to offset the dryness of flour. To keep the baked product moist, try adding 3-4 more tablespoons of liquid for every cup of liquid called for in the recipe.

REDUCE SUGAR. Because liquids evaporate more quickly at high altitudes, sugar in a baked product can become overly concentrated during baking, weakening the cell walls of cakes, desserts, quick breads and cookies. The addition of liquid helps dilute the sugar concentration, as does slightly reducing the sugar in the recipe. Reducing the sugar 1-3 tablespoons for each cup of sugar called for will help prevent the product from falling.

REDUCE LEAVENING AGENTS. The reduction of atmospheric pressure at high altitude allows leavening agents, such as air, steam and carbon dioxide, to expand more than at sea level.

Baking powder and baking soda expand 20 percent more at 5,000 feet than at sea level. This over-expansion can result in a baked product rising excessively, stretching the cell structure and making the product too coarse or breaking the cell walls, causing it to fall. This problem can be corrected by reducing baking powder and baking soda by 1/8-1/4 teaspoon at high altitude.

Air can be controlled most easily by not overbeating egg whites. Beat egg whites just until they form peaks that fall over; you don't want them stiff and dry, which will cause collapse of cells.

If you have had trouble with popovers, it is because steam also expands more at our elevation, causing popovers to puff out too rapidly and lose steam before a crust can form. This problem can be corrected by using extra-large eggs to strengthen the batter and by preheating pans 3 minutes in a 450-degree oven before filling.

INCREASE OVEN TEMPERATURE. Oven temperatures are usually increased to help set the batter before air cells expand too much. Try increasing the oven temperature 10 or 15 degrees or as much as 25 degrees.

REDUCE FAT. Fat of any type is a tenderizing agent. Too much in a rich cake batter will weaken the cell structure, causing a possible collapse of the cake. In rich recipes it may be necessary to reduce the fat by one or two tablespoons.

INCREASE FLOUR. Flour is a strengthening agent, as are eggs. In making cakes, cookies, muffins and quick breads, the addition of a small amount of flour often will help prevent the product from falling. Try using 1 to 3 additional tablespoons per cup of flour called for.

Specific changes I make for:

COOKIES: At high altitudes, cookies may need a slight increase in baking temperature; a slight decrease in baking powder or soda, fat and/or sugar; and/or a slight increase in flour. Also increase liquid in cake-like cookies.

CAKES, MUFFINS AND QUICK BREADS: These usually need a slight decrease in baking powder and baking soda (about 1/4 teaspoon less of each); a reduction of sugar by 1-3 tablespoons per cup of sugar called for; an increase in liquid of 3-4 tablespoons for each cup of liquid called for; and often an increase in flour of 1-3 tablespoons per cup of flour called for.

YEAST BREAD: Watch that the dough does not rise more than double its bulk or it may not be able to withstand the additional stretching in the oven and fall. The other common problem with yeast bread is the addition of too much flour, making the bread heavy and dry. Correct this by adding only 2/3 of the flour called for in the recipe and kneading in only enough additional flour to be able to handle the dough without sticking.

For more help, get the Colorado State University Cooperative Extension Office's free flyer, "High Altitude Food Preparation Guide."

Other publications such as "High Altitude Baking," "Making Yeast Breads," "Mile High Cakes" and "Today's Sourdough" are available for a small fee. Contact the CSU office at 636-8920for your copy.

- Ryan is a consumer and family-education agent for Colorado State University Cooperative Extension. Contact the Springs extension office: 636-8920

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