Food: A taste of spring with a sting

AS WE are still in the middle of Paschaltide, which continues until the Saturday after Pentecost, the saints aren't getting much of a look-in, though I see they have moved the Annunciation to 7 April this year, which will make the Christ-child a rather premature baby on Christmas Day. This week has the feasts of Hugh of Grenoble, Mary the Egyptian, a reformed prostitute, Richard of Chichester, Isidore of Seville and Vincent Ferrer - a good cosmopolitan lot.

Last month, Clarissa Dickson Wright gave a book-signing party for the republication of my Feast Days in her excellent The Cook's Book Shop in Edinburgh's Grass Market, a lovely place and the party went with a Highland swing thanks to all Clarissa's efforts and friends. There was a charming lady there who wanted a receipt for nettle soup, as the season is right. I think her name was May, but I have lost the paper I wrote it down on; anyhow here goes with information gathered from You Are What You Eat by Kirsten Hartvig and Dr Nic Rowley. Nettles should be harvested on a fine day, in the morning after the sun has dried off the dew. The young tops should be plucked before they flower using gloves and scissors. They can be used fresh or dried. Wash the nettle tops well and boil in a little water for about 20 minutes, then chop finely and use with other vegetables in soups, stews and pasta dishes. If you just want soup, proceed as for a spinach or sorrel soup, thickening with flour or potato and adding a good amount of thick cream before serving. Try this curious offering.

Mix all the ingredients together, season with a little salt and freshly ground black pepper, and place in a muslin bag or thin tea towel. Tie well. Boil in well-salted water for about 20 minutes until the vegetables are cooked. Remove from the cloth and serve with a savoury sauce or gravy as a side dish to accompany anything you fancy.

You can make nettle tea by pouring boiling water over two fresh tops per cup and allowing it to infuse for 5 to 10 minutes, then strain. Very good for you, have three cups a day. You can also use it as a final rinse to give hair an extra shine.

I went to a terrific lunch at the Four Seasons Hotel, Park Lane, where the Earl and Countess of Carnarvon were presiding and Mark Greenfield, the Highclere Castle chef, was cooking dishes from their second book of receipts. Everything was delicious, so I thought you might like to sample this pudding from the book.

Pre-heat the oven to Gas 4, 350F, 180C. To make the base, place the sugar and butter into a saucepan over a low heat. Once melted, turn up the heat and allow to bubble for a couple of minutes. Pour into a 10inch ovenproof dish. Arrange the pears on the bottom of the dish rounded side down. Thoroughly mix the rest of the ingredients together and pour over the pears. Bake for one hour in the lower section of the oven. Test with a sharp, pointed knife which should come out clean; if it has raw mix sticking to it, the pudding will need further cooking. Allow to cool slightly before turning it out carefully onto some gorgeous serving plate. Eat with lightly whipped double cream or some very good vanilla icecream. The black treacle is the inspired ingredient, I think.

If you prefer your pears in a more natural state, try:

Mash the roquefort cheese in a bowl with a fork. Add the other ingredients and mix well - a quick whizz in a food processor seems to work. Adjust the seasoning, remembering that roquefort is very salty. Lay the pears on a bed of watercress, cover with the dressing and serve. Lord Carnarvon was taught to make this by his French governess, Mlle Marcelle Huc, or 'Doll' to the family, so bon appetit to you all.

Copyright Spectator Apr 5, 1997
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