Aussies enjoying sophisticated dining 'down under.'

Aussies enjoying sophisticated dining 'down under'

Ten thousand miles from New York City or 7500 miles from Los Angeles is quite a long way in anyone's book . . . but in perspective, Australia's urban environs are really not that far. In the heart of Sydney or Melbourne one feels little difference from the metro areas noted above.

From the towering skyscrapers to the gingerbread architecture, the cosmopolitan nature of the people, the cities, and the restaurant offerings is as close to the United States as any in the world.

Australia is a distinct and different continent. Its land mass, almost the size of the United States, supports a population of only 17 million at last estimate (or one-twelfth that of America). Much of the country's area is devoted to inland farming, sheep herding, and ranching, although great portions of the "outback" are little more than wasteland.

Australian viticulture is a growing economic segment which, in less than true enological terms, produces a slew of superb wines which are at least as well known as Crocodile Dundee. In fact, Australians have actually been producing wines longer than their U.S. counterparts, and have participated in French tasting competitions since the mid-19th century.

Sydney and Melbourne are the country's two largest cities, with populations of 4 and 2 million respectively, sustaining a level of sophistication that might well surprise some North American urbanites. This inherently cosmopolitan nature is reflected in architecture and design, commercial development, retail, and yes, even restaurants.

Aussie city dwellers and suburbanites have discovered a passion for dining out as more than the ritual of eating. Dining as theater, restaurants as entertainment, and the attraction of variety in cuisines are all changing the complexion of the Australian restaurant scene.

Another major factor contributing to the shift away from "milkbars" (establishments that closely resemble our coffee shops) and pubs (those brightly lit, sparsely decorated watering holes) is the heightened level of expectation of the middle-to-upper segments of urban society. Aussies, in general, are some of the world's greatest travelers, adding to their experience and further raising their expectations.

The middle class is huge, and all working Aussies receive a minimum of a month's paid holiday annually, which many smartly use to travel the globe. When visiting the continent of Australia it is amazing to find how many urban dwellers have visited America, Europe, and Asia, and are quite familiar with foreign cuisines as well as customs.

Back at home, bored by traditional offerings, Aussies are beginning to look for new and different dining opportunities.

Consequently, there has been a flurry of new restaurant openings and developments undertaken mostly by bright, insightful entrepreneurs able to foresee the inevitable dining revolution. These innovators are beginning to satisfy the seemingly insatiable desire for more variety, higher quality, better service, and greater entertainment value.

Like society in general, the restaurateurs have also traveled extensively and borrowed proven and successful ideas from operators around the world. In some cases the similarities are quite striking, such as Chez Oz in Sydney which looks, sounds, and feels like Spago, although they have not been able to replicate Wolfgang's flavors or culinary mastery. Others have taken the warehouse-style restaurant concept like America or Scoozie, and added unique character to develop such progressive eateries as Rosatti and Peroni, both in Melbourne.

Baba Lu in Collins Place, Melbourne, has combined the tapas of Baba Riba in Chicago and a version of Mexican appetizers to add a new and well-liked offering. On the other extreme, there is Taylors in Sydney, which dishes up regional countrified Italian fare in a lovely, homey atmosphere where the owners have discovered the impact of combining good quality food and service with great value.

As in any other major city, the styles and varieties of cuisines in Sydney and Melbourne vary as much as the people themselves. There are restaurants known for steak, seafood, Chinese, Thai, Italian, and a smattering of the rest of the world's offerings. Other food-service establishments have a following based on decor, atmosphere, or the crowd they attract. Still others have a reputation based on tradition (although this does not always mean that food or service is very good).

All in all, Australians are quickly coming of age, generally growing more knowledgeable, and certainly gaining awareness. This heightened level of expectation is prodding sometimes stodgy restaurateurs to create more innovative and progressive eateries. This new business environment, based on strengthened expectations and demand, is producing some interesting offerings and more great opportunities for those operators ready to take a chance.

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